Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
Late in the evening I received orders to start next morning at four with
some traders and a zaptieh as escort. Radovan disguised himself as a
Turkish subject, and we started punctually in the grey dawn. It was very
cold, and the entire landscape was blotted out by driving rain. We
crossed the Lim by a wooden bridge full of holes, which a portion of
the Turkish army had been trying to mend by stuffing sticks into them.
Half blinded by the rain, we breasted the hill and waited on the top for
the "drushtvo" (company) and the zaptieh, who soon appeared like ghosts
out of the fog. The track was pretty bad, the landscape quite invisible,
and we rode through a wilderness in a ceaseless downpour. The way was
enlivened only by murder stones, which were pretty frequent. "That's the
Bohemian," said the zaptieh. "Who shot him?" said someone. "God knows,"
said the zaptieh stolidly, "how should I?" We slopped on. "Those were
traders," said the zaptieh presently (there were two stones this time).
"Were they robbed?" asked one of the drushtvo, a trader himself. "By
God, I know not. There was nothing on them when they were found." And so
on and so on. At eleven the weather cleared quite suddenly; the clouds
rolled away and disclosed scenery that was startlingly magnificent. We
had been mounting all the time and were on vast uplands. The huge peak
of Kom of the Vassoievich towered from Montenegro and a border
blockhouse showed clear on a ridge. "That's Mokra," said the zaptieh,
and he laughed and tapped his rifle--an unnecessary pantomime, for the
land told its own tale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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