Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
By this time I felt so strongly that Oriental methods did not suit me at
all that I said "No, thank you" to coffee, and told the official that
if he did not give me my passport at once I would go back to Berani
without it. This great linguistic effort amazed him so much that he
explained the delay. They had sent a telegram about me, and were
awaiting the reply. A voice from the crowd said suddenly in French,
"Mademoiselle is without doubt English! They do not know what to do
about you. They are afraid to stop you, but they dare not let you travel
farther. They have sent for instructions to Uskub. I too am waiting for
my teskereh, but you will have yours first; you are English. No one here
understands French; one may talk. If you had been here a few weeks ago
you could have gone to Uskub, and met the newspaper correspondents. Now
they are all gone." He came nearer, and added in a lower voice, "They
think it is all over, and it has not begun." I was aware of this, and
hastily squashed his remarks on such a dangerous subject. The official
was occupied in bellowing at the crowd of poor wretches who were
applying for passes. And they were all told to wait. One luckless boy
who had two women with him cried out wildly that they had nothing to
eat, that they wished to go to work as reapers, and had waited many
days. "By God, it is true," cried a voice from the crowd; but the
official only bellowed at him, and he had to give place to the next
applicant. They were all Serb-speaking peasants in the last stages of
misery. Finally, I was told that my passport should be sent me very
soon, and that I was to go.
We went to a house in the Christians' quarter of the town, where the men
who had accompanied me were waiting with many others. Everyone was
absorbed in a handful of newspaper cuttings that had just been brought
in a dirty, much-worn envelope. They contained an account of the Servian
murders. It was the 6th of July, and till then no details of the affair
had come through! Even then the accounts were so meagre that they
appeared to be some of the first published. They were grim and brief.
"Death of Queen Draga," ran one. "Queen Draga is dead. The circumstances
of her death are not exactly known, but there were many revolver wounds
in her body." A piece of journalism which requires some beating.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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