Through the Land of the SerbDurham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
History
Through the Land of the Serb
Durham, M. E. (Mary Edith)
Montenegro -- Description and travel; Serbia -- Description and travel
I was then reminded of the invitation to breakfast with the Montenegrin
kavass, and was hurried off to his house. In spite of his brave attire
of the night before, his top-boots, his green embroidered coat, and his
gold waistcoat, his mansion was only one degree more civilised than the
Albanian's. The ground floor was used as a shed. We ascended a
step-ladder to the floor above, where he stood beaming, and conducted me
at once to the bedroom. The outer room, or kitchen, was quite bare, with
smoke-grimed rafters, and a heap of firewood and a few pots and pans in
it. The fire blazed on the hearthstone in the corner, and his wife was
making coffee. He introduced me to her, and told her that I was English
and must have a large cup with milk in it. He swelled with pride about
his knowledge of the English, and introduced me with ceremony to the
company five men and a woman, who had, it seemed, all been invited to
meet me. The top-boots, a rifle, a cartridge belt and a revolver hung on
the wall, and of course the patron saint of the family. There were two
iron bedsteads, a table, a chair or two, and a bench. I sat on the
bench, and the Albanian on one of the beds, which he admired very much.
He then favoured the company with the details he had learned about me
the night before--my age, my brothers and sisters, etc.--all of which
appeared to interest them greatly, as did also the plan of adopting me
as a daughter, which they strongly urged me to accept. The kavass,
however, did not mean him to do all the talking, but fetched a key and
unlocked the chest in which he kept his best clothes and other
valuables. From this he extracted a good pair of laced-up boots and
handed them to me with delight. They were stamped inside with the name
of an English maker, and were nearly new. He had scarcely ever worn
them, he valued them so--had bought them in Constantinople for two
pounds "sterline." They made quite an impression on the company, and I
expressed my great joy at beholding them. His wife brought in the
coffee, black for everyone but myself. Mine was a large bowl full of
boiled milk with a little coffee in it. The kavass showed it to the
company and explained that, besides that, the English always ate a
little piece of pig with an egg on it. This so fired the Albanian's
imagination that he leaped up with the intention of scouring the
neighbourhood for fragments of pig, and I had some difficulty in
checking the pig-chase. Whatever was cooked for me I knew I should have
to eat, and boiled milk and bread were at any rate safe. They all
begged me to make a long stay at Dulcigno. I could spend the evenings at
their respective houses, and they would all be glad to see me. As,
however, it was a fine day and the weather had lately been most
unsettled, I determined to take advantage of it and ride to Antivari
while it was possible. I therefore thanked everyone, and said I should
like a horse and guide that day at eleven o'clock. Then an odd
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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