Probably the dullness of spirits we all felt was due not so much to the rain as to the knowledge that we had reached the place where we were to part company, as my stay at Naraguta would be long enough not to justify retaining 20 carriers. All through the marches we had been on such excellent terms with each other that severance of association was welcomed by neither side. However, it had to be. The rain had ceased and the men stood in line in front of the bungalow. I thanked them for the way they had worked and handed to each a tangible token of recognition. They gave the equivalent to a cheer several times as they went across the compound towards Jos village, Hanza staying to the last and repeatedly turning to wave a farewell. [Illustration: A GOVERNMENT REST HOUSE. (See page 151.)] [Illustration: THE HEADMAN’S HOUSE AT TORO, WHERE THE AUTHOR SLEPT. (See page 170.)] CHAPTER XXI TWO SHORT JOURNEYS Man proposes—A narrow river barrier—Travellers this side of the stream; beds, the other side—Pagan cultivation—A postal description—Headmen and Headmen—Gotum Karo. This narrative may be made easier to follow if explanation is given of the outline of movement. That is based, not on a series of consecutive marches, but of making Naraguta a centre of operations and working from there in two directions, of a few days each, until the final trek is entered upon, which is to be across and off the Bauchi Plateau, then over it again and back to railhead. He is wise who travelling at this period of the year—October—does not make sure in the morning where he will sleep that night. Man proposes; a set of unexpected circumstances disposes. I formed this plan. To leave Naraguta at 11 a.m.; lunch at Gurum—a bad 10 miles of road—afterwards covering the seven miles to Bugi. Gurum was reached in an hour-and-a-half. I set out for Bugi with, as guide, Mr Leighton, of Gurum Camp, which is the headquarters in Nigeria of the Anglo-Continental Mines. A five miles’ ride through pleasant, open, bush country took us to the Gurum River ford. Though a narrow crossing, the merest glance showed that visual bearings must be taken before entering the water. The morning’s downpour had deepened and quickened the current, which swirled and rushed in a menacing manner, as to say, “I forbid anybody touching me whilst in my present mood.” One of the Gurum Camp doki boys who frequently acts as guide across the stream declared himself “No fit” to try and get over. He declined to step from the bank.