No need to watch for the sign of a storm. The sky is generally clear,
blue flecked by a little white. The surrounding land is altering its
appearance. The universal green, hitherto freshened by the rains, has
largely become russet, with fields of light yellow grass. This dry,
long grass has already provided the running ground for bush fires,
too frequently started by a lighted object thrown thoughtlessly among
quick-burning material. You can see these bush fires at night, sharp
and distinct against the blackness around. They may be small and easily
beaten out by the natives using sticks. Sometimes the fire will extend
to a half-mile front. Then it must proceed until a large river or other
barren space gives it no passage and it dies away. At the end of the
rains, the European will clear the space round his house for hundreds of
feet. So will the careful native. Should he have neglected, his dwelling
may be smouldering in a flash; and whether from the bush or by internal
cause, when a fire lays hold of a village scores of families are homeless
in a few minutes.
These bush fires of Northern Nigeria are not, however, of that wild,
devouring character seen in Canada and Australia, where the fierce roar
can be heard a mile away and where everything staying within the line
of advance must be destroyed entirely. Though here there is the sharp
unpleasant crackle and uncomfortable heat as the flames roll onwards, the
grass is not very high and being comparatively sparse does not give the
fire that firm grasp which makes it invincible to subdue.
Over the blackened ground where it has run, within a few hours you will
notice new blades of grass sprouting, so wonderfully ready to respond to
nature is this soil, poor though it is judged by the soil more to the
north, the west and the east.
There are other signs of the changed season. The harmattan haze hangs on
the hills, and presently will come those dust storms which in no slight
degree make themselves felt however you may try to protect yourself in a
dwelling of any kind.
There is little cultivation along the route we are passing. Dwarf
guinea-corn, about four feet in height, and similar millets nearly
constitute the whole. There are a few flowers bearing rich yellow petals
which easily transport one’s fancy to English counties. The impression is
emphasised by rolling downs, which remind you of Sussex scenery.
I have a wholesome fear of tiring readers with overmuch detail of travel
and therefore pass over with a few words the several days’ trek to Jemma,
with one march of 25 miles in a severely hot temperature, mostly on foot,
lasting from morning to evening, with not so much as a drink of water or
a biscuit to eat, and entailing a descent of more than 2,200 feet from
the Bauchi Plateau to Nassarawa Province. I take up the story where my
little caravan, emerging from a long lane through high grass, dipped into
a plain backed by high hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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