It is still broad, afternoon daylight as we pass Gana-Gana, 35 miles from
Forcados, and therefore only 30 miles from Burutu, which is regarded as
practically the same; so we may still reach the latter to-day.
Gana-Gana is the first trading station of the Niger Company from the
headquarters at Burutu. The river is a-quarter-of-a-mile across. In
mid-stream is a small island on which the station has been made. The
manager’s house is a medium-size stern-wheeler hauled up on the island,
The lower part of the boat is used as a store for bought produce; the
upper part remains little altered from when the barque was afloat, the
saloon merely modified to the conveniences of living on land.
A screw steamer has also been drawn up, roofed with corrugated iron and
is used as living quarters for the black staff. No one else remains on
the islet during the night.
In addition there are three corrugated iron sheds for stores and another
for trading goods. Produce is brought by natives in canoes from both
banks of the river.
This placing of a trading station on an island was of considerable
advantage in the old days when a general attack on a European store,
firing the building and murdering the occupants was a periodical
entertainment of inhabitants up the rivers. The station being surrounded
by water which had to be crossed gave the defenders a chance, with the
use of rifles, to beat off an assault.
All the trading stations are kept busy from morning to night, so there is
little likelihood of anybody in one experiencing monotony; but in former
days there was the additional exhilaration of always having in mind the
probable need of a sudden run for firearms to keep at bay a howling mob
of savages bent on killing and plunder. By comparison, things are quite
tame nowadays.
Although the river, broad as it is, gives practically nothing to spare
in depth, we spin along in the effort to reach Burutu to-night, but the
channel occasionally becomes so shallow that, unless we are to be run
aground after all, the engines have to be slowed; for, whilst it is
urgent to reach Burutu without stop, as a mail liner leaves Forcados
to-morrow morning for England and we have light cargo for her, if we go
on a sandbank the whole scheme must be upset and a week’s delay ensue.
That means, instead of the goods being directly transhipped, the labour
and extra expense of warehousing and handling them three times instead
of once. Therefore, notwithstanding the brief twilight is passing and
darkness coming on, the engines continue their regular sharp pulsation
and the stern-wheels strike the water with their pat-pat-pat sound,
and no halt is made as the night settles around, though we are still
some 20 miles from Burutu. Fortunately, the moon is clear. Nasaru looks
unflinchingly ahead. He has been doing so for 12 hours, yet he shows no
sign of weariness and appears as visually alert as he was at the start.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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