Reference has been made to the Arab merchants. They, however, constitute
only a small number of the multitude who frequent the market and the
adjoining streets. You will see them at their stalls or continually
passing along in the afternoon, the thoroughfares crowded with them:
Fulanis, Hausas, Nupés, Beri-Beris, male and female, many carrying in
hands or on head cotton goods, native and imported, for sale. It is a
busy multitude and few there are not intent on business.
The men are tall and bear themselves well, in turban and robe wide and
ample, of blue or plain white or white figured with green or whatever
may be the decorative colour. Respectful, nearly every one of them. They
invariably give the salute which is regarded as due to the Englishman in
Northern Nigeria: removal of sandals and kneeling on the ground, though,
of course, where persons are thickly gathered only the semblance of the
compliment can be performed.
[Illustration: A CORNER OF KANO MARKET.
Note the Stocks. (See page 112.)]
[Illustration: A SECTION OF THE MARKET WITH OPEN-AIR STALLS.
(See page 104.)]
Where instead of the turban a kind of white fez is worn, as is frequently
the case with young men, it is lifted in courteous salute. An Englishman
may well feel proud whilst walking in the streets of Kano, not because
his vanity is ministered to by the repeated deference, but that he may
reflect and remember the courageous pioneers of only a dozen years ago
who with resources improvised in the country won the land for Great
Britain and placed the name of Englishmen highest in the land.
Going through the streets the white man is gazed at as an unusual sight,
but the people did not look at me with more interest than I at them,
wondering how we, a mere handful, overthrew their rulers and the large
armies of mounted, trained fighting-men and captured their strong towns.
However, one need not wonder long. Knowledge of contemporary events gives
the answer. Still more to admire—for, after all, conquering is only a
feat of arms—is the sagacity which produced the policy in full operation
to-day, that of the people ruled by those whom they have selected, and
rulers and people thoroughly co-operating with the governing Power in
administering the affairs of the country. History furnishes no example
where that has been done with anything like the same material in a
similar period.
A peculiar thing struck me in connection with this general salutation. In
Zungeru, esteeming the excellent feeling shown by the native population
to the English, I was told I would find it still better in Kano. That
is just what I did not find. In Kano City, yes, and, to an extent, at
the despised British traders’ stores, but the nearer one goes to the
Residency quarter the less general is the salute given an Englishman.
Apparently, estimating from such signs and tokens, he is respected most
in the native area. Strange, this.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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