Vans have a small compartment at each end for native servants, but there
are no stoves. Should, however, there be a delay during the journey,
passengers’ cooks get out and kindle a fire on or near the track. That
is the chance for a hot meal. There are seven stations: Awai, Soba,
Duchi-n-Wai (for the Berrida and neighbouring tin mines), Karre, Kudara
(for the Wassaku Concessions), Worroko and Rahama.
The first 10 miles passed are open, flat country, having slight bush,
with sections here and there under cultivation for guinea corn. Near
Awai, 17 miles from Zaria, can be seen the remains of a walled town.
The wall, now quite thin, has been worn away by the weather to a few
feet in height, broken and irregular at top, and within it thick trees
of many years’ growth and wild grass demonstrate that where thousands
of souls lived and where their children might be dwelling to-day has
been destroyed utterly, the dead fruit of fierce tribal warfare. A few
straw, circular huts belong to recent comers who are tilling bits of the
desolate city.
At 10 o’clock, whilst at Soba Station, word came that the heavy rain of
the night had caused a washout of the line some miles ahead. Questions
were asked whether we should have to tramp the remaining distance to
Rahama. “Oh, no; it would only mean a stay of about four hours.”
Now, you folks at home, delayed at a tiny village station would probably
exhaust the interest of the place in a few minutes and relieve the tedium
of waiting by gloomy maledictions or settle down to fitful and impatient
reading. Not so out here. We are all philosophers at such trifles.
We know that a day’s set programme may at any moment be completely
upset by the elements. One of the passengers, Mr D. Bannerman, of the
Northern Nigeria (Bauchi) Tin Mines, complacently unlocked his gun case,
shouldered a rifle and, accompanied by a little party, sallied forth in
the bush to look for sport and perchance bring something fresh back for
the dinner pot, arranging with the engine-driver that a long loud whistle
should notify that telegraphic word had come that that washout was near
being remedied. Mr Bannerman was back well before a start was made, at
2.45.
Thirty-five miles from Zaria the Duchi-n-Wai hills loom in front, only
the tips of them, above the dark green of trees, now much closer, which
on both sides have closed in the view to a mile or so. They soon give way
left and right to fields less freely timbered, with an occasional acre
bearing guinea corn.
It had been clear when we left Soba that the journey could not be
completed that day, so on reaching Duchi-n-Wai, at 4.15, a stop was made
for the night. Cooks cut wood for fires from trees near and commenced
preparations for dinner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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