We were approaching a land the child of tropic seas and volcanic
lava, and many of the features were new and strange to us. The
mountains looked familiar in outline, but the colors of the
landscape, the soft lilacs, greens, and browns, and the whole
atmosphere of the scene, were unlike anything we had ever before
seen. And Diamond Head, what a feature it was! Had it only had a
head, one could easily have seen in it a suggestion of a couchant
lion, bony, huge, and tawny, looking seaward, and guarding the
harbor of Honolulu which lies just behind it. Into this harbor, in
the soft morning air, our ship soon found its way, and the monotony
of the vast, unpeopled sea was quickly succeeded by human scenes of
the most varied and animated character, not the least novel of which
were the swarms of half-amphibious native boys who surrounded the
vessel as she lay at the wharf, and with brown, upturned faces and
beckoning hands tempted the passengers to toss dimes into the water.
As the coins struck the surface they would dive with the ease and
quickness of seals, and seize the silver apparently before it had
gone a yard toward the bottom. Holding the coins up to view between
the thumb and finger, they would slip them into their mouths and
solicit more.
On shore we were greeted with the music of the Royal Hawaiian Band,
and a motley crowd of Hawaiians, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, and
Americans, bearing colored leis, or wreaths of flowers, which they
waved at friends on board, and with which they bedecked them as soon
as they came off the gangplank. It was a Babel of tongues in which
the strange, vowel-choked language of the Hawaiians was conspicuous.
Honolulu is a beautiful city, clean, bright, well ordered, and well
appointed,--electric lights, good streets, electric cars, fine
hotels and clubs, excellent fire protection, mountain water,
libraries, parks, handsome buildings, attractive homes,--in fact,
all that we boast of in our home cities. Embosomed in palms, with
mangoes, and other tropical trees, with a profusion of gorgeously
colored vines and hedges, with spacious, well-kept grounds about the
large and comfortable houses in the residential portion--these
features, with the ready hospitality of the people, made our hearts
warm towards it at once.
Volcanic heights on all the land side look down upon the city. Mount
Tantalus, rising four thousand feet above the sea, is just back of
it, with its long slopes of volcanic ash and sand now clothed by
forests and fertile fields, and a huge ancient crater called the
Punch Bowl, born probably on the selfsame day, the geologists think,
as Diamond Head, dominates the city in the immediate foreground. If
the Punch Bowl were again to overflow with the fiery liquid, the
city would soon go up in smoke. But its bowl-like interior is now
covered with grass and trees, and presents a scene of the most
peaceful, rural character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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