One Saturday a walking-club, largely made up of men and women
teachers, whose native Hawaiian name meant "Walkers in Unfrequented
Places," asked us to join them in a walk up Palola Valley to the
site of an extinct crater well up in the mountains. These walkers in
unfrequented places proved to be real walkers, and gave us all and
more than we had bargained for--more mud and wet and slippery trails
through clinging vines and rank lantana scrub than was good for our
shoes and garments or for the bodies inside them. It was a long pull
of many miles, at first up the valley over a fair highway, then into
the woods on the mountain-side along a trail that was muddy and
slippery from the recent showers, and most of the time was buried
out of sight beneath the high, coarse stag-horn fern and a thick
growth of lantana that met above it as high as our shoulders. A more
discouraging mountain climb I never undertook. The vegetation was
all novel, but it had that barbaric rankness of all tropical woods,
with nothing of the sylvan sweetness and simplicity of our home
woods. There were no fine, towering trees, but low, gnarled, and
tortuous ones, which, with their hanging vines, like the broken
ropes of a ship's rigging, and their parasitic growths, presented a
riotous, disheveled appearance.
Nature in the tropics, left to herself, is harsh, aggressive,
savage; looks as though she wanted to hang you with her dangling
ropes, or impale you on her thorns, or engulf you in her ranks of
gigantic ferns. Her mood is never as placid and sane as in the
North. There is a tree in the Hawaiian woods that suggests a tree
gone mad. It is called the hau-tree. It lies down, squirms, and
wriggles all over the ground like a wounded snake; it gets up, and
then takes to earth again. Now it wants to be a vine, now it wants
to be a tree. It throws somersaults, it makes itself into loops and
rings, it rolls, it reaches, it doubles upon itself. Altogether it
is the craziest vegetable growth I ever saw. Where you can get it up
off the ground and let it perform its antics on a broad skeleton
framework, it makes a cover that no sunbeam can penetrate, and forms
a living roof to the most charming verandas--or lanais, as they are
called in the islands--that one can wish to see.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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