One of the novel pleasures in which most travelers indulge while in
Honolulu is surf-riding at Waikiki, near Diamond Head. The sea, with
a floor of lava and coral, is here shallow for a long distance out,
and the surf comes in at intervals like a line of steeds cantering
over a plain. We went out in our bathing-suits in a long, heavy
dugout, with a lusty native oarsman in each end. When several
hundred yards from shore, we saw, on looking seaward, the long,
shining billows coming, whereupon our oarsmen headed the canoe
toward shore, and plied their paddles with utmost vigor, uttering
simultaneously a curious, excited cry. In a moment the breaker
caught us and, in some way holding us on its crest, shot us toward
the shore like an arrow. The sensation is novel and thrilling. The
foam flies; the waters leap about you. You are coasting on the sea,
and you shout with delight and pray for the sensation to continue.
But it is quickly over. The hurrying breaker slips from under you,
and leaves you in the trough, while it goes foaming on the shore.
Then you turn about and row out from the shore again, and wait for
another chance to be shot toward the land on the foaming crest of a
great Pacific wave.
I suppose the trick is in the skill of the oarsmen in holding the
boat on the pitch of the billow so that in its rush it takes you
with it. The native boys do the feat standing on a plank. I was
tempted to try this myself, but of course made a comical failure.
One of my pleasant surprises in Honolulu--one that gave the touch of
nature which made me feel less a stranger there--was learning that
the European skylark had been introduced and was thriving on the
grassy slopes back of the city. The mina, a species of starling from
India as large as our robin and rather showily dressed, with a loud,
strident voice, I had seen and heard everywhere both in town and
country, but he was a stranger and did not appeal to me. But the
thought of the skylark brought Shelley and Wordsworth, and English
downs and meadows, near to me at once, and I was eager to hear it.
So early one morning we left the Pleasanton, our tarrying-place, and
climbed the long, pastoral slope above the city, where cattle and
horses were grazing, and listened for this minstrel from the
motherland. We had not long to wait. Sure enough, not far from us
there sprang from the turf Shelley's bird, and went climbing his
invisible spiral toward the sky, pouring out those hurried, ecstatic
notes, just as I had heard him above the South Downs of England. It
was a moment of keen delight to me. The bird soared and hovered,
drifting about, as it were, before the impetuous current of his
song, with all the joy and abandon with which the poets have
credited him. It was like a bit of English literature vocal in the
air there above these alien scenes. Presently another went up, and
then another, and still another, the singers behaving in every
respect as they do by the Avon and the Tweed, and for a moment I
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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