Time and Clocks: A Description of Ancient and Modern Methods of Measuring TimeCunynghame, Henry H. (Henry Hardinge), Sir
Philosophy
Time and Clocks: A Description of Ancient and Modern Methods of Measuring Time
Cunynghame, Henry H. (Henry Hardinge), Sir
Clocks and watches; Time
The cogwheel _a_ and the ratchet wheel are both mounted loosely on the
arbor carrying the drum. _a_ is linked to _b_ by a spring _c_. The
ratchet wheel _b_ is engaged by a pall fixed to some convenient place
on the body of the clock frame. When the weight pulls on the drum the
pull is communicated to the ratchet wheel _b_, and this acts on the
spring _c_ and pulls it out a little. As soon as the spring _c_ is
pulled out as far as its elasticity permits, a pull is communicated
to the cogwheel _a_, and the clock is driven round. When the clock is
wound the pressure of the weight is removed, and therefore the ratchet
wheel _e_ no longer presses on the pall, and thus no pressure is
communicated to the ratchet wheel _b_, or through it to the clock. But
here the spring _c_ comes into play. For since the ratchet wheel _b_ is
held fast by the pall _d_, the spring _c_ pulls at the wheel _a_, and
thus for a minute or so will continue to drive the clock. This driving
force, it is true, is less than that caused by the weight, but it is
just enough to keep the pendulum going for a short time, so that the
going of the clock is not interfered with.
If the reader can get possession of a clock, preferably one that does
not strike, and, with the aid of a small pair of pincers and one or two
screwdrivers, will take it to pieces and put it together again, the
mechanism above described will soon become familiar to him. Not every
clock is provided with maintaining spring and overwinding preventer.
The cause of stoppage of a clock generally is dirt. Where possible,
clocks should always be put under glass cases. “Grandfather” clocks
will go much better if brown paper covers are fitted over the works
under the cases. In this way a quantity of dust may be avoided. To get
a good oil is very important. It will be noticed that pivot-holes in
clocks are usually provided with little cup-like depressions. This is
to aid in keeping in the oil. The best clock oil is that which does not
easily solidify or evaporate. Ordinary machine oil, such as used for
sewing machines, is good as a lubricant, but rapidly evaporates. Olive
oil corrodes the brass.
It is best to procure a little clock oil, or else the oil used for gun
locks, sold by the gunsmiths. The holes should be cleaned out with the
end of a wooden lucifer match, cut to a tapering point. The pivots
should be well rubbed with a rag dipped in spirits of wine. If the
pivots are worn they should be repolished in the lathe. If the cogs of
the wheels are worn, there is no remedy but to get new ones. Old clocks
sometimes want a little addition to the driving weight to make them go.
The weight necessary to drive the clock depends on its goodness of
construction, and on the weight of the pendulum. If the clock is driven
for eight days with a cord of nine feet in length with a double fall,
then during each beat of the pendulum that weight will descend by an
amount =
9/(2 × 24 × 60 × 60 × 8) feet or 1/12800th inch.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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