"Why does not man fall on his knees and adore the world, the mountains,
the sea, the all? How it exalts the spirit to think that it is, and
that it is conscious of the immense world and of itself! O Linda, I am
still full of the morning; I still sojourn even on the sublime hell.
Yesterday I rode in the morning with my _Bartolomeo_ through the rich,
full garden avenue to the gay Portici, which links itself to the giant
like Catana to Ætna. Ever the same great epic Greek feature running
through this sublime land,--the same blending of the monstrous
with the beautiful, of nature with men, of eternity with the
moment; country-houses and a laughing plain opposite to the eternal
death-torch; between old, holy temple-columns goes a merry dance, the
common monk and the fisherman; the glowing blocks of the mountain tower
up as a bulwark around vineyards, and beneath the living Portici dwells
the hollow, dead Herculaneum; lava cliffs have grown out into the sea,
and dark battering-rams lie cast among the flowers. The ascent was in
the beginning refreshment to my soul; the long mountain was a conductor
to the full cloud. Late at night, after an eternal ascent, without
having enjoyed the evening sun, through whose red glow upon the ashes
we were obliged to wade rapidly, we arrived here at the hermit's. The
moon was not yet up; thy island was still invisible. Often it thundered
under the floor of the apartment. Then was I all at once pleasantly
reminded by the hermit of my old Schoppe, when he told me that a
limping traveller with a wolf-dog had once said up here, 'In Vesuvius
was the stall of the incessantly stamping thunder-steeds.' That could
certainly after all have been no one but Schoppe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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