So I wrote away until February 16, when I again left my dear home for
the west, to have my book published. Went via DuBois and Bradford. Left
Bradford March 19, for Buffalo, on the R. & P.R.R. The country along
this road presents a wild picture, but I fear it would be a dreary
winter scene were I to attempt to paint it, for snow drifts are yet
piled high along the fence corners. At Buffalo I took the Michigan
Central R.R. for Chicago. I catch a glimpse of Lake Erie as we leave
Buffalo, and then we follow Niagara river north to the Falls. Reader, I
will do the best I can to tell you of my car-window view of Niagara. We
approach the Falls from the south, and cross the new suspension bridge,
about two miles north of the Falls. Just below the bridge we see the
whirlpool, where Capt. Webb, in his reckless daring, lost his life. The
river here is only about 800 feet wide, but the water is over 200 feet
deep. The banks of the river are almost perpendicular, and about 225
feet from top to the water's edge. Looking up the river, we can catch
only a glimpse of the Falls, as the day is very dull, and it is snowing
quite hard; but enough is seen to make it a grand picture. Across the
bridge, and we are slowly rolling over the queen's soil. Directly south
we go, following close to the river. When we are opposite the Falls the
train is stopped for a few minutes, while we all look and look again.
Had the weather been favorable, I would have been tempted to stop and
see all that is to be seen. But I expect to return this way at a more
favorable time, and shall not then pass this grand picture so quickly
by. The spray rises high above the Falls, and if the day was clear, I
am told a rainbow could be seen arching through the mist. The banks of
the river above the Falls are low, and we can look over a broad sheet
of blue water. But after it rushes over the Falls it is lost to our
view. I wish I could tell you more, and tell it better, but no pen can
do justice to Niagara Falls.
I was rather astonished at Canada. Why, I did not see more prairie or
leveler land in the west than I did in passing through Canada. The soil
is dark red clay, and the land low and swampy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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