To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
In the manner of Kurdistan this was a private interview, so I found no
more than twelve servants, retainers, and armed men standing at the
door. The room was long and narrow, two walls of which were pierced
with eight double doors opening on to the verandah, the other walls
being whitened and recessed, as is done in all Persian houses. The
floor was carpeted with fine Sina rugs, and at the far end stood a
huge brass bedstead piled high with feather quilts. Before and at the
foot of this lay a long, silk-covered mattress, and upon it sat the
Lady Adela herself, smoking a cigarette. The first glance told her
pure Kurdish origin. A narrow, oval face, rather large mouth, small
black and shining eyes, a narrow, slightly aquiline hooked nose, were
the signs of it; and her thinness in perfect keeping with the habit
of the Kurdish form, which never grows fat. Unfortunately, she has
the habit of powdering and painting, so that the blackened rims of
her eyelids showed in unnatural contrast to the whitened forehead and
rouged cheeks. Despite this fault, the firmness of every line of her
face was not hidden, from the eyes that looked out, to the hard mouth
and chin. Her head-dress was that of the Persian Kurds, a skull-cap
smothered with rings of gold coins lying one over the other, and bound
round with silk handkerchiefs of Yezd and Kashan. On each side the
forehead hung the typical fringe of straight hair from the temples to
the cheek, below the ear, and concealing it by a curtain of hair, the
locks called “agarija,” in the tongue of southern Kurdistan. The back
hair, plaited, was concealed under the silk handkerchief that hangs
from the head-dress. Every garment was silk, from the long open coat,
to the baggy trousers. Her feet were bare, and dyed with henna, and
upon ankle and wrist were heavy gold circlets of Persian make. Upon her
hands she wore seventeen rings, heavily jewelled, and round her neck
was a necklace of large pearls, alternating with the gold fishes that
are the indispensable ornament of the Persian Kurd, and of many of the
Persians themselves.
[Sidenote: A GREAT LADY]
A woman fanned her, while another held cigarettes ready, and a maid
waited with sherbet and rose-water. As I entered, Lady Adela smiled
and motioned me to a seat beside her on the mattress, and gave me the
old-fashioned Kurd greeting:
“Wa khair hatin, wa ban i cho, ahwalakitan khassa shala.” (“You are
welcome; your service is upon my eyes; your health is good, please
God.”)
And it was in the peasant tongue of Sina, her native place, not the
sloppy, mouthing dialect of Sulaimania; and I replied in the same,
grateful to hear the language with which I had grown familiar a year
before in Persian Kurdistan.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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