To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
I found him in a great three-sided room, or summer portico, which
opened upon the roof of the entrance lobby and some rooms attached
thereto. From the open side a magnificent view of Shahr-i-Zur and the
Azmir Mountains spread before one, clear and rose-coloured in the
morning light. Round the portico were ranged wide, high benches, upon
which it is possible to sit, dangling a leg that does not reach the
ground, or to squat in the Oriental fashion. Carpets were spread upon
the ground and over the benches, and just outside, on the roof, a
number of armed Kurds stood in attendance. Tahir Beg sat meditating,
upon a bench covered with a fine rug, apparently oblivious of an old
sayyid, a scowling priest in a great turban, and a Turkish bimbashi in
full uniform. He was a wild-looking man. His heavy eyebrows shaded the
bulging blue eyes of an opium-smoker, but the vacillating expression
was mitigated by the strong aquiline nose and firm chin. His mouth
was concealed by a heavy, fair moustache. He wore the usual Kurdish
garments--long, flowing, striped silk robes--and in his belt carried a
Colt repeating pistol and a great dagger. His headgear was that of a
Jaf chief--fringed silk handkerchiefs wound in a turban broader at the
top than at the base, and the fringes hung about his ears and forehead,
giving him a wild and ferocious appearance.
[Sidenote: A JAF CHIEF]
He had been informed of my arrival, and replied to my greeting in
perfect Persian, without a trace of Kurdish accent, inviting me to a
seat beside him. He asked a few questions, whence had I come, and where
going, and did I speak French, answering to my affirmative with “Et moi
aussi, je sais un peu,” a surprising utterance from a Kurdish chief who
has never quitted his native hills.
As if this effort were too much for him, he subsided into silence,
and thus we sat for a space, the quiet unbroken save for the service
of coffee “à la turque,” which the servants handed round. Once he
conferred a mark of his favour upon me by handing me a cigarette from
his box, and lighting it for me himself.
Presently another Turkish official, arrived from Khaniqin _en route_
for Sulaimania, came in, and being a loquacious fellow, insisted
on carrying on a conversation, which was confined to short Turkish
monosyllables on Tahir Beg’s part.
He cut the interview short by suddenly rising and retiring to a private
room, whereupon we dispersed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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