To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
The only thing I could think of was to go and see him quietly, saying
that I was making a pilgrimage to Biara, to which place it was the
fashion to journey now and then, calling the jaunt a pilgrimage. It
took me some days to make up my mind to this course, for I did not want
to hurry, nor to go sooner than was necessary; and meanwhile the days
passed in idleness, attendance at the divans of Lady Adela and Tahir
Beg, and walks with Mansur the Christian, in the late afternoon, to a
garden just outside, where he would squat in the grass, and producing
a little bottle from his pocket, consume his araq accompanied by nuts
or melon seeds, as is the habit of drinking in Persia. His greatest
efforts were to induce me to join him, asserting that it made him
miserable to drink alone; but I did not wish to open any possible
channel along which thoughts might flow detrimental to the excellence
of my Islamic orthodoxy, and which might on occasion become words.
When I had mentioned to Hama that I was going to see the Shaikh ul
Islam, he was somewhat astonished, and very much hurt because I would
not tell him my business; for such a lack of confidence was unusual
he said, between a master and his servant, and reflected upon the
latter’s integrity. So I bound him to great secrecy, and told him that
the Shaikh ul Islam owed me money and I was going to try and recover
it, but did not want to wait till he came here, as he was a man of
uncertain temper and contumacious nature, and might endeavour to injure
me if he found his creditor suddenly installed, so to say, on his
door-step. This was sound Kurd sense, and Hama extolled my reasoning,
and advised the purchase of four loaves of sugar as a present for the
Shaikh, for it is a fault to go and see such a person without something
in the hand.
So one fine morning, having hired for the day for four krans (or one
shilling and eightpence) a mule, we loaded it with the four sugar
loaves in a saddle-bag, and set forth, having provided the usual bread
and cigarettes for consumption on the way. The road lay east from
Halabja, towards the great wall of Aoraman, and at the base of the
hills south of Shahr-i-Zur. For half an hour we passed along a level
road, looking out upon our left across the great depression, imagining
what a sight this hill-girt basin of a plain must have been when
Nushirwan the Just ruled the land, and gardens and towns covered its
still fair face. To the north, in a blue distance soon to be dispelled
by a fierce sun, lay the piled-up mountains of the Azmir, behind
Sulaimania, whence faint wreaths of blue smoke from the burning grass
ascended like the fume of an offering to the sun, as a vindication of
the ancient religion of Zoroaster that had its fires upon these same
mountain-tops, a votive duty forgotten by man and perpetuated by Nature.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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