To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
We banked it with Matti, who locked it with the rest of my money in
his iron box, and then we sent for “kebab”--scraps of meat cooked
over charcoal--and with these and bread, made what is called the
“merchant’s lunch.” All the afternoon I sat outside the office making
the acquaintance of the Kurdish merchants round about. One of these, a
certain Hama Ali, spoke Persian extremely well, and was very proud of
having been to Kashan in Persia, where he had unsuccessfully attempted
to trade against a ring of Persian merchants; and while cursing their
business astuteness, praised their nice manners and hospitality, and
that to a Sunni, who is hated among the Persian Shi’a.
The evening meal was a frugal affair of boiled rice and meat, and a
cucumber or two procured for me in the bazaar by the old dame of the
house; and an hour after eating I turned in upon the stones of the
courtyard, that being the coolest place, for the nights were stuffy.
Early in the morning I received a visit from the old Mustafa Beg,
Mudir Effendi, my companion in the caravanserai on my first arrival
at Sulaimania. He expressed genuine pleasure at seeing me again, and
stayed for an hour or two, drinking the morning tea. He lamented, as
always, the lack of his appointment, which he could not take up, and
cursed the ill-luck that had transplanted him from Tripoli in Africa to
Sulaimania. He had learned no Kurdish, had found no new friends, and
passed his days as he had done before, visiting the official Turks,
sitting in the post-office, and dining at the shaikhs’ house. His old
fingers, white and well-kept, trembled so much that he could barely sew
on the buttons of his garments, a task he was continually engaged upon;
and his pride, that kept him respectable and clean, necessitated his
getting up in the night to wash his own garments in the caravanserai
cistern, for he could not be seen doing such work, nor had he, indeed,
another change of raiment.
[Sidenote: THE MUDIR EFFENDI]
He was somewhat avaricious, I discovered, for he had enough cash to
purchase more clothing, and at length I gained his consent to buy the
material for another shirt and trousers, so we repaired to the bazaar.
My costume of those days, in town, was one which gained some respect
for me among others, and should, perhaps, have lessened my own for
myself.
I wore an old pair of pyjamas under the dressing-gown I had adopted
in Kirkuk, and a good abba thrown over these gave me a peculiar
appearance, which apparently passed among the Sulaimanians for
distinction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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