To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
But I was not to have peace for long. Only a few mornings after this,
two policemen turned up, with a message from the commissaire of police,
that he wished to see me at once. As I had imagined that he had ceased
worrying about my passport, I followed them, wondering what he wanted.
He was seated in a tailor’s shop in the bazaar, a fat man, with a
cunning look in his little blue eyes, and his mouth concealed under a
heavy yellow moustache.
He spoke nothing but Turkish and Arabic, and as I reached him,
addressed me in the former.
“Have you a passport?” he asked; “if so, why have you not submitted it
to me?”
“Because so far you have not asked for it, nor done anything except
hint at the illegal objects of my visit here; had you asked reasonably
for it I would have shown it.”
[Sidenote: A POLICE ENQUIRY]
“Well, I wish to know what you are doing here--why you came, why you do
not go, where you came from, your name, your----”
“These,” I broke in, “are known to everyone in Sulaimania but yourself.
I came here to do business, and have done some, and would have done
more had the place here been in a normal state of quietness. I came
from Kirkuk, and as you were with the same caravan you should have
known that; and as at Kirkuk my passport was seen and stamped, I am not
going to volunteer details as to whence I came there, for it is not
your business. As to why I do not go, I am hoping to leave very soon
for Bagdad--as soon as your bold Turkish army can induce the Hamavands
to leave a road open.”
This kind of conversation in the open bazaar, and among a crowd of
Kurds, half of whom understood, he had not expected, and appeared a
little hurt at a tone he was not apparently used to.
“Well,” he said, “at any rate I must see your passport, so you had
better fetch it.”
So, accompanied by a policeman I went back to the house and got my
English passport, and the Turkish travelling passport issued to all who
journey in that country. By now it had received ill-use, and the name
was illegible, as well as particulars of religion and birthplace. These
I brought to him there, and he inspected the travelling passport, and
after humming and hawing, said:
“Yes, this is very well, but the essential thing is an identification
passport. Where is it?”
I showed him the Foreign Office passport, which also interested the
Kurds round about.
“This,” he said, “is not a passport, it is merely a permit from your
Government to travel.”
“Well,” I said, “can you read it?” a remark that elicited guffaws from
the listeners.
“No,” he answered, “of course I cannot.”
“Then,” I said, “you must either take my word or suspend the enquiry,
you cannot blame me because you do not know English. I have stated
that I am a British subject, and there is my British passport, with
the visé of the Turkish Consul in London on the back, and there is my
name, ‘Ghulam Husain,’ upon it,” and I pointed to where my own name was
written in English.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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