To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
One is soon tired and sleepy after the jolting of the mule and the heat
and air, and it is not usual to sit up long after sunset The meal
finished, we lay down where we were, upon a somewhat stony ground, and
waited for the sleep that comes quickly. But the darvish sat upon his
heels and commenced in a low voice chanting in monotone, “La allahu
ill’allah,” in rising cadence, drawing deep breaths with a groan,
till his voice rang out in the still night. His breath shortened, and
the curious exhaustion that accompanies these exercises overtook him,
and with a groan he sank motionless upon the ground. Then, after a
few minutes he recommenced, “Allahu akbar, allahu akbar,” in sharp
staccato, accentuating the last syllable of the word “akbar” so that
it fell like a hammer-stroke upon the ear. Again till exhaustion he
continued, and once more he rose and started the cry upon “Allah.”
After this he lay prostrate and slept where he collapsed, and we slept
too.
In the manner of caravan travelling it was yet pitch dark when we got
under way in the morning, and the sun rose as we arrived at the foot
of the ridge and pass, into Bazian--the now evacuated country of the
Hamavands.
We struggled slowly and painfully up the long and stony ascent, and
from the summit looked back again over Sulaimania--whose position was
marked in the valley of Surchina by a white streak up the ridge of the
opposite range--the road to Panjwin and Persia.
A turn behind a rock, and we left it all out of sight, and below our
feet lay the narrow valley of Bazian, stretching right and left.
Opposite it was bounded by the Bazian range, not high, but rising in a
sheer cliff of several hundred feet, shutting in the land and giving
the place an air of peaceful seclusion in the bright morning light,
which changed to a gloomy prospect when the sun, going west, threw
the cliff’s shadow across the plain, and its face appeared a frowning
wall, under whose lee the Hamavands had encamped, and from their camps
watched the passage of caravans--and victims.
Now it was deserted, no smoke curled up quietly in the morning air,
no horse neighed, and we had not heard the report of a single rifle
since daylight. So, having nothing to apprehend, we picked our way
leisurely down the slope, and at the bottom turned to the right along
the valley, gradually making our way to the other side towards the pass
of Darband-i-Bazian. We passed, as we went along, many a little garden
that the Hamavands had left, little neat patches of cultivation on the
hill-sides and in the bottom of the valley, which were now bearing
fruit, and of which the travellers of another small caravan we had
overtaken were busy cutting and carrying away the deserted produce.
[Sidenote: BAZIAN]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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