To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
I was proposing to give him a penknife I possessed, but he saw he
had nothing of equal value, and would only accept a handful of dried
dates, in exchange for which he gave a cake of sweet bread. He had
just received his pay for five days’ hard work, which required skill,
experience, and probity, the sum of two shillings. No wonder people
employ Kurds in preference to lazy and incompetent Arabs and Turks.
The third day an extra row of skins with three more rafters was added
to our raft, and half an hour before we were supposed to start, eight
soldiers of a Turkish regiment from Kharput calmly walked on board,
knocking the captain overboard, for he would have protested. These
creatures, by their behaviour and subsequent cowardice and brutality,
disgusted us to such an extent that had we foreseen the annoyance their
folly and bestiality would cause, I think we should have all got out
and walked from Jezira to Mosul.
However, we were trying to coax them to sit in such positions as would
not endanger the raft’s equilibrium, when upon the ruined wall above
two uniformed persons appeared, and a third, who came aboard with a
confidential serious air, told us the police required us. Haji, the
Arab merchant, the soldier, and myself, climbed the wall and were
ordered in a surly manner to produce passports. The others had not
theirs with them, but mine was ready, and I produced it, hoping that
affairs would pass off as easily as at Diarbekr.
Not so, the policeman read the whole thing, then turned sharply upon
me, and informed me that I had stolen an English tourist’s passport,
that I was obviously an Oriental, or why this method of travelling,
this dress, this acquaintance with Kurdish. In vain I protested, and he
asked me my name. With horror I heard the voice of Haji, just arrived,
answer:
“This is Musa Effendi, a Persian gentleman, for whom I vouch; my very
good friend and comrade, a good companion, and a devout Muslim.”
The policeman folded up the passport with a triumphant air, and
directed his two men to take me to the police office. A sudden thought
helped the situation. “I am a British subject,” I exclaimed; “touch me
at your peril; thank God we have a consul in Mosul who awaits me. If I
do not arrive, there will be the devil to pay.”
And heartily glad I was that the passport supported the statement of
British subjectivity.
“Then how comes it,” said the policeman, who never doubted that I was a
Muslim, “that you do not bear a Muhammadan name? and are described as
Protestant? which all know is a kind of Christian?”
[Sidenote: MORE PASSPORT DIFFICULTIES]
The feeblest bluff saved me; perhaps they distrusted the truth of the
details written there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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