To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of KurdistanSoane, Ely Banister
History
To Mesopotamia and Kurdistan in disguise : $b with historical notices of the Kurdish tribes and the Chaldeans of Kurdistan
Soane, Ely Banister
Iraq -- Description and travel; Kurdistan -- Description and travel; Tigris River Valley -- Description and travel
Next morning I was engaged in a little tailoring. My overcoat was
getting too warm, or rather, the weather was getting too warm for the
coat, and I had no other garment sufficiently long to be dignified,
save a thin corded dressing-gown. Perforce I adapted this. I took
off the abundant braiding, removed the waist-cord and sewed on some
buttons, and produced a garment thereafter called a “labbada” or long
coat, such as religious students and Azarbaijan merchants wear.
I was sewing on the last button, when a knock came at the door, and the
servant of the Persian Consul stood there bowing, “Would I come and see
the Persian Consul on a friendly visit? He was in the caravanserai and
very anxious to make my acquaintance.” So donning my new garment, I
followed him along the gallery.
I found him in a room over the gateway, seated at the upper end upon
a small carpet. Below him, that is, against the long side wall and
nearer the door, was a collection of varied Kurds, of Sauj Bulaq, Sina,
Merivan, and other Persian towns. Their head-dress of handkerchiefs
indicated their origin. Standing up near the consul was an elderly,
thick-set man, bushy-bearded, wearing the baggy trousers and shirt
tucked in, that are typical of the muleteers of the Persian border,
but his pointed cap proclaimed him a Mukri. The room was partly taken
up with three tables, upon which stood basins and copper vessels
containing various concoctions. A tray covered with small sweetmeats,
just cooked, stood by an earthen oven in a corner; and a young man was
engaged in placing therein a fresh tray full of uncooked confections.
Sugar loaves lined the walls, hanging by nails, and a smaller table
near the window was covered with bottles of colouring matter and the
apparatus of a sweet-maker’s trade. Amid all this the consul sat, a
grey, fierce-looking man, in Kurdish dress, but he wore upon his head
the felt hat and narrow handkerchief of the Kermanshah Kurd.
To this assembly I entered, walking delicately to avoid numerous
obstacles on the floor, and all rose, answering my “Salamum ’alaikum”
with a sonorous “alaikum as salam,” to which the bearded man added the
“wa rahmatullah wa barikatah.”
The consul made place for me by his side, and in excellent Persian
replied to my compliments. The assorted Kurds, who understood very
little, began a discussion about some tribal feud somewhere, and left
us to a conversation in which the bearded man, who turned out to be the
proprietor of the sweet business, and a Persian subject of Sauj Bulaq,
joined. This old fellow, Haji Rasul, was a darvish of a sect of the
Shi’a Muhammadans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account