To The Gold Coast for Gold: A Personal Narrative. Vol. IIBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
To The Gold Coast for Gold: A Personal Narrative. Vol. II
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Ghana -- Description and travel; Gold mines and mining -- Ghana
The black caravan, or rather herd, was mustered by its guide and manager,
the energetic W. M. Grant. His _personnel_ consisted of seven Kruboys from
Cape Palmas and forty-three Axim carriers, who now demand eight and
sixpence for a trip which two years ago cost a dollar. They stray about
the country like goats, often straggling over four miles. As bearers they
are the worst I know, and the Gold Coast hammock is intended only for
beach-travelling. The men are never sized, and they scorn to keep step,
whilst the cross-pieces at either end of the pole rest upon the head and
are ever slipping off it. Hence the jolting, stumbling movement and the
sensation of feeling every play of the porters' muscles, which make the
march one long displeasure. Yet the alternative, walking, means fever for
a new comer. On return we cut long bamboos and palm-fronds and made the
Krumen practise carrying, Hindu-fashion, upon the shoulder.
The rest of the moving multitude was composed of the servantry and the
camp-followers. One _bouche inutile_ bore a flag, a second carried a gun,
and so forth, the only principle being to work as little as possible and
to plunder all things plunderable. There were exceptions. Joe (Kwasi
Bedeh) of Dixcove, Cameron's old servant, who boasts of being a pagan, and
who speaks English, French, and Dutch, a handy and intelligent young
fellow, who can cook, sew, carpenter, or lead a caravan--in fact, can
serve as factotum--and his accounts, marvellous to recount, are honestly
kept. I should want no better servant in these coast-countries and in
exploring the far interior. The cook, 'Mister Dawson,' of Axim, is a
sturdy senior of missionary presence: having been long employed in that
line, he wears a white tie on Sundays, and I shrewdly suspect him of
preaching. A hard worker, beginning early and ending late, he is an
excellent stuffer of birds and beasts, and the good condition of our
collection is owing entirely to him. His son, Kwasi Yau (Sunday Joe), is a
sharp 'boy' in the Anglo-Indian sense. The carpenter, our model idler, who
won't work and can't work, receives 3_l_. per mens., when $8 should be the
utmost; we cleared him out on return to Axim. Meanwhile he saunters about
under an umbrella, and is always missing when wanted for work.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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