To The Gold Coast for Gold: A Personal Narrative. Vol. IIBurton, Richard Francis, Sir
History
To The Gold Coast for Gold: A Personal Narrative. Vol. II
Burton, Richard Francis, Sir
Ghana -- Description and travel; Gold mines and mining -- Ghana
Hearing that the gold-hilted official swords of the King of Bein were for
sale, and wishing to inspect the place, we set off at 3.30 P.M. to cover
the 4,769 yards measured along the sands by Mr. Graham. Reaching our
destination, eighteen miles distant from Axim, we were carried up the long
straight street-road which leads to the old English fort. It is the normal
building, a house on bastions, both well and solidly made of stone and
lime. Amongst the materials I found a fine yellow sandstone-grit and a
nummulite so weathered that the shells stood out in strong relief. Both
were new to us on this trap-coast, and no one could say where they were
quarried; many thought they must have come from Europe, others that they
are brought from inland. The masonry of the sea-front was pitted with
seven large wounds, dealt by as many shells when we broke down our own
work. Such was the consequence of sympathising with the Ashantis in 1873,
when Axim also was bombarded.
What changes these factory-forts have seen, beginning with the days of the
jolly old Hollanders, who, in doublets and trunk-hose, held high state,
commanding large garrisons and ruling the rulers of the land. What
banquets, what carousals, with _sopies_ of the best schiedam, and long
clay-pipes stuffed with the finest tobacco, when an exceptional haul of
gold-dust or captives had come to hand! But Time got the better of them;
the abolition of the export slave-trade cut the ground from under their
feet; diminished profits made economy necessary, and the forts were
allowed to become the shadows of their former selves. Then came the
cession to England, when all appeared running on the road to ruin. Now,
however, things are again changed, and 'Resurgam' may be written upon
these scenes of decay. The Mines will once more make the fortune of the
Gold Coast, and the old buildings will become useful as hospitals, and
store-houses, and barracoons for coolie emigrants.
The Bein fort has been repaired and whitewashed inside by the lessees,
Messieurs Swanzy, whose agent, Mr. Carr, we found here in possession.
Unlike Axim, it still preserves intact the outer work with its dwarf
belfry over the strong doorway. But the cistern in the middle of this
slave-court must make the cleanly old Netherlanders turn in their tombs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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