Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
The first-named of these temples derives its actual name from a
tradition that a Christian church occupied the site in Visigothic times,
to account for the dedication of which a legend is repeated similar to
that of Santa Maria ad Nives at Rome. It is situated on what was once
the Jewry or Ghetto, on the western side of the city, not far from the
Puente de San Martin. Its foundation--as a synagogue--is variously
ascribed to the period of the Reconquest, to the last days of the
Moorish dominion, and to the latter period of the Khalifate. The first
date seems the most probable. It continued to be used for the Jewish
worship till 1405, when, as has been already told, it was seized and
converted into a Catholic church. It has long since become a merely
secular monument. The exterior, approached through the most miserable
and sordid neighbourhood, is very far from reflecting the splendour the
Jews enjoyed at its foundation. The façade, mean and dilapidated like
the rest of the exterior, is probably of much more recent construction
also. Within, a strange, fantastic impression is created. The phrase,
“How are the mighty fallen!” involuntarily rises to the lips as one
contemplates the traces of grandeur and elegance subsisting amid ruin
and decay. The temple is symbolical of the race: exotic, reminiscent of
a lost glory, depressed, oppressed. There is, however, no trace or
suggestion of the primitive Hebrew architectural style about the
building. The traditions of Jerusalem were either unknown to, or had
been forgotten by, those who reared these walls--likely enough Moors,
whose skill was always at the disposal of Christian and Jew. In fact,
the synagogue may be taken as a fine example of late Saracenic work. The
plan consists of a nave with two aisles on each side. The nave was
prolonged in the seventeenth century so as to form a chancel. The
building is 81 feet long by 63 feet wide. The nave reaches to a height
of 60 feet, and is 15 feet broad, while the aisles measure only 12 feet
and rise from 40 to 50 feet high. The nave and aisles are separated by
four rows of octagonal columns, from which spring bold horseshoe arches
of the true Moorish type. The capitals are of stucco and elaborately
designed with floral devices, in which the fir-cone is conspicuous;
there is a vague suggestion of Byzantine influence. Mr. Street imagines
them to be much later than the original capitals which they overlay.
“All the Moorish decorative work seems to have been executed in the same
way in plaster. This was of very fine quality, and was evidently cut and
carved as if it had been stone, and seldom, if ever, I think, stamped or
moulded, according to the mistaken practice of the present day. The
consequence is that there is endless variety of design everywhere
and--wherever it was desired--any amount of undercutting. The spandrels
above the arches are filled in with arabesque patterns, and there is a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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