Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
cusped wall arcade below the roof.” All this stucco work appears to date
from about the time of Alfonso X., or perhaps from a later restoration.
Above the nave is an exquisite frieze in low relief, formed of lines
interlacing and crossing each other. The roof is of pine-wood, and _not_
of Lebanon cedar, as at one time alleged. Mr. Street thinks “the
pavement is very good, but must be about the date of the conversion of
the synagogue into a church. It is divided into compartments by border
tiles laid down the length of the church on either side of the columns.
The spaces between them are filled in with a rich diaper of encaustic
and plain red tiles, whilst the general area between these richer bands
is paved with large red, relieved by an occasional encaustic, tiles. The
latter have patterns in white, dark blue, and yellow, and in all cases
they are remarkable for the beautiful inequality of the colours of the
surface of the design. Both colour and material are in themselves better
than the work of our tile manufacturers of the present day and
illustrate very well the difference between hand-work and machinework.”
The Catholics added three altars in the plateresque style, which, it is
unnecessary to say, do not harmonise with the rest of the edifice. One
of the retablos is attributed to Berruguete.
Comparing this old Jewish meeting-place with the other and later
synagogue, Miss Hannah Lynch remarks: “As a religious temple, as the
expression of solemn worship rooted in the strange and mysterious East,
the former is by far the more imposing, the more earnest and harmonious.
Prayer in the _Transito_ seems a matter of graceful and artistic
dilettanteism; here it appears a great racial cry of the soul.”
The later vicissitudes of this synagogue are curious. About the middle
of the sixteenth century it was converted by Cardinal Siliceo into an
asylum for the professional frail ones of Toledo; but about half a
century later the establishment ceased to exist--whether because there
was no more frailty in Toledo or no more repentance, we are not told.
Subsequently it was turned into a barracks, and then (O’Shea says) into
a dancing-hall.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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