Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
Two ruinous structures are pointed out as the palaces of Don Pedro and
of Enrique de Trastamara respectively. The latter probably belonged to
one of the Counts of Trastamara, not to the king who bore that title. It
is in the Moorish style, with horseshoe arches, friezes, and _ajimeces_.
The so-called palace of Don Pedro is of the same class of architecture,
but has much less to show--a horseshoe arch, a dado, and an almost
illegible Arabic inscription which reads, “Lasting glory and perpetual
prosperity to the master of this house.”
Better examples of the Mudejar (or late Moorish) style are the Casa del
Mesa and the Taller del Moro. The former is situated close to the church
of San Román, and was built soon after the Reconquest by that prominent
Toledan, Esteban Illán. The saloon is one of the very best examples of
this style of architecture. It is 60 feet long by 22 feet wide, and 36
feet high. The artesonado ceiling is thus described by Street: “The
patterns are formed by ribs (square in section) of dark wood with a
white line along the centre of the soffit of each. The sides of the ribs
are painted red, and the recessed panels have lines of white beads
painted at their edges, and in the centre an arabesque on a dark blue
ground. The colours are so arranged as to mark out as distinctly as
possible the squares and patterns into which it is divided, and the
sinking of some panels below the others allows the same pattern to be
used for borders and grounds with very varied effect. The reds are
rather crimson in tone, and the blues very dark.” The entrance--of a
slightly horseshoe pattern--is framed in exquisite and luxuriant
traceries. So also is the opposite _ajimez_ window, but here the designs
show Gothic influence. A high dado of _azulejos_ and a very deep cornice
and frieze of delicate workmanship complete the decoration of this very
beautiful hall.
The Taller del Moro is (quite without foundation) said to occupy the
site of the massacre of the _Noche Toledana_. It was so called because
it was used as a workshop during the building of the cathedral. There is
a conflict of opinion as to its age, but it probably dates from about
the time of the Reconquest. The Arabic inscriptions, however, imply that
it was intended for the habitation of a Moor, the Latin texts being
doubtlessly added by later owners. The Taller consists of a large hall,
54 feet long by 23 feet wide, and of two adjacent smaller apartments. It
exhibits the artesonado ceiling, the delicate stucco-work and friezes
with star-like and floral designs we are led to expect in specimens of
Mudejar architecture. Street doubts if the stucco-work dates further
back than 1350. The portal is in good Gothic style, and was added by
Cardinal Mendoza.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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