Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
In the original plan no side-chapels appear to have been contemplated.
But the chapel of Santa Lucia was added by Archbishop de Rada in memory
of Alfonso VI. And, in addition to chapels built since the rest of the
church, the spaces between the buttresses in the outer aisles have been
railed off so as to form twenty-three chapels of various styles and
periods. The interior is lit by 750 stained-glass windows of rich hues
that delight the spectator. They depict episodes from the Scriptures,
and are said to have been as carefully designed as if intended for close
inspection. Among the artists were Dolfin (1418), De Vergara, Albert of
Holland, Maese Cristobal, Juan de Campos, Vasco Troya, and Pedro
Francés. The effect of the light falling in rays of richest colour on
the pavement and columns is magical. The walls are denuded of colour and
rudely whitewashed.
The centre of the Cathedral is occupied by the choir (_Coro_), to the
east of which, separated by the transept, is the Capilla Mayor. The
choir is enclosed by walls and cloisters, except on the side facing the
Capilla Mayor, where it is railed in by the magnificent reja, designed
by Domingo de Cespedes and Hernando Bravo (1548). Like the corresponding
railing of the High Chapel opposite, this work was formerly heavily
silver-plated and gilded, but at the time of the French invasion it was
recoated with iron to secure it from spoliation. Unfortunately, no
means have yet been discovered of restoring the reja to its original
state. Among the elaborate ornamentation may be noticed the arms of
Cardinal Siliceo and of the Ayala family, with the interwoven
inscriptions _Procul esto prophani_ and _Psale et psile_. The Choir is
paved with white marble inlaid with dark. The vaulting above the Choir
itself rises to the height of a hundred feet, the aisle round it to
ninety feet, and the outer aisle to thirty-five feet. In the outer aisle
are small chapels placed between the buttresses. Mr. Street describes
this part of the building in great detail and considers that the
original scheme of the Cathedral is only to be seen here. The triforium,
formed of an arcade of cusped arches, in the outer wall of the inner
aisle exhibits Moorish influence. “It would be impossible,” writes the
authority just mentioned, “to imagine any circumstance which could
afford better evidence of the foreign origin of the first design than
this slight concession to the customs of the place in a slightly later
portion of the works. An architect who came from France, bent on
designing nothing but a French church, would be very likely, after a few
years’ residence in Toledo, somewhat to change in his views, and to
attempt something in which the Moorish work, which he was in the habit
of seeing, would have its influence. The detail of this triforium is,
notwithstanding, all pure and good....”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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