Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
The church of San Juan de los Reyes, near the Puente de San Martin, was
built in 1476 by Ferdinand and Isabel, in thanksgiving for the victory
of Toro gained over the Portuguese allies of Juana, nicknamed “la
Beltraneja.” The first architect was a Fleming, Juan Guas, one of the
builders of the cathedral. The church was intended to receive the ashes
of the royal founders, but after the capture of Granada it was decided
to establish the mausoleum in that city, and the completion of San Juan
de los Reyes was delayed till the seventeenth century. In consequence,
the architecture exhibits the transition from the Late Gothic to the
Late Renaissance style. “Nothing,” remarks Street, “can be more
elaborate than much of the detail of this church, yet I have seen few
buildings less pleasing or harmonious.” The exterior is unpromising, and
is decorated, if we can use the word in such a connection, with festoons
of rusty chains which fettered the limbs of the Christians in Moorish
prisons. The chief entrance, to the north, was completed by Covarrubias
in 1610, and is in the decadent style of architecture. It is adorned
with inferior statuary, and the arms and initials of the Catholic
sovereigns.
The interior is composed of a single nave, two hundred feet long and
from forty-three to seventy feet wide. There are four chapels on one
side and three on the other. At the east end of the church is a shallow
five-sided apse, forming the Capilla Mayor. Over the junction of the
nave and transept is an octagonal cupola, resting on four fine pillars,
with a pointed dome and a window in each face. At the west end of the
church is a deep gallery, containing the choir. The altar dates from the
Renaissance period, and is brought well forward into the nave. It came
from the suppressed church of Santa Cruz. Above it is a blue velvet
canopy, embroidered with the eagle, the symbol of St. John. The whole
fabric is enriched with statuary, tracery, carving, and heraldic devices
in almost reckless profusion. The yoke and the arrows--the devices of
the Catholic sovereigns--and their coats of arms are repeated again and
again. Among the inscriptions is one commemorating the foundation of the
church. It runs: “Este monasterio é églesia mandaron hacer los muy
esclarecidos Principes é señores D. Hernando é Doña Isabel, Rey y Reina
de Castilla, de Leon, de Aragon, de Sicilia, los cuales señores por
bienaventurado matrimonio y uñaron los dichos Reinos, seyendo el dicho
rey y señor natural de los reinos de Aragon y Sicilia, y seyendo la
dicha señora Reina y señora natural de los Reinos de Castilla y Leon; el
cual fundaron á gloria de nuestro señor Dios, y de la bienaventurada
Madre suya, nuestra Señora la Virgén Maria, y por especial devocion que
le ovieron.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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