Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"Calvert, Albert Frederick
History
Toledo: an historical and descriptive account of the "City of generations"
Calvert, Albert Frederick
Art -- Spain -- Toledo; Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
This is why El Greco seems to chronicle for us our impressions of
Toledo, and of Spain.
Surely no other painter has lived in a city in such strong agreement
with his spirit. Think of the place--wind-swept, heat-dried,
extraordinarily austere, yet flushed with colour, ochre-red shading to
unusual greens; heaped upon its rocky throne above the yellow flowing
Tagus, its rugged silhouette straight cut against a sky hard and clear
as enamel; and, beyond, the sierra like a great brown sea in which it
all stands as an island starting from the waves. A suggestion of
strenuousness seems to linger everywhere, a spirit, personal and keen,
cruel almost as the sword-blades the city fashions. The very buildings,
placed upon the crags beneath the great hulk of the Alcazar, repeat this
impression, they rise in sharp upward and downward lines like an
arrangement of swords, and make their appeal by the strange strength of
their aspect. The streets are a tortuous net of steep-rising
passage-ways. A city strongly itself that has suffered no change,
fantastic as a city seen in a dream.
Yes, to those who know Toledo, the impression of the character of the
city upon El Greco will bring no surprise. His art corresponds perfectly
with its setting. Everywhere his work is around you, for El Greco is one
of those painters who has but a single home. He built churches and other
buildings--the classic façade of the Ayuntamiento, for instance, was
modelled on his design; he carved statues, he painted pictures, there
are canvases of his in the museum, in the cathedral, and in many of the
churches. And in all this mass of work, it is the living force behind it
that is the first impression that you gain; a kind of driving power that
fascinates you, just as Toledo fascinates you, by reason of its power.
El Greco was a painter able to create--that is the secret of it all.
And, be it remembered, the artist does not find his matter straight from
the springs of his brain, what he is able to see he sets down, and that
is all. His art is great in exact measure as it is able to transfer this
vision from him to us. In this way El Greco, to whom vision seems to
have been the whole of life, does in his pictures transfer to us the
entire impression of Toledo, so that it is difficult to speak of his art
without making Toledo the refrain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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