Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
of gloom, and the expression in this grey atmosphere is mystic and
serene. Not one of the best examples, but good enough to suggest that
there may be some truth in the supposition that El Greco was the
sculptor of the famous little statue of St Francis of Assisi in the
Cathedral Treasury, and not Alonzo Cano or Pedro de Mena. But doubtful
of my sacristan's knowledge, I struck a match, mounted a chair, and
convinced him by reading out the half obliterated Greek letters of
Theotocopulos's signature. Nothing but the patronymic could be
deciphered, but the signature of the picture of the Escorial M.
Demetrius Bikelas deciphered more fully: [**Greek: Domênichos
Theotochoulos Kpês, 'epoíe], which is our sole assurance of his
birthplace.
There remains another great picture of El Greco to draw attention to,
overlooking, as I am compelled to, the very names of so many others. The
Assumption of San Vicente is no less magnificent than singular. Most
rare is its realistic impression of a scene mid air. You feel about it
the very hurricane of the upper air, the dizzy velocity of flight. This
is no image of calm soaring through space, the idea of dreamy swim most
painters of the Assumption are content to convey. The very modernity and
the violent realism of El Greco's genius forced him to forsake in all
things the notion of simple reverie. He seeks to convey distinct
impressions; veracity as far as possible must stamp these. He does not
delight in pampering the spectator with sentimental musings or the
inanely beautiful. Ugliness, too, has its beauty when accompanied by
strength. You must understand to enjoy, must bring the brain as well as
the senses to the contemplation of his work. Like all preoccupied
artists, he inevitably sins by excess, and overtaxes the bewildered
spectator. Something of his spirit went into our own Browning. His
drawing is often like Browning's verse, inexplicably rough and out of
gear. But nothing could change either genius. One leaves you to make
what you can of his volumes; the other leaves you for ever exasperated
by eccentricities of pencil and brush it is now no use seeking to
understand. For instance, in this picture, shocking and glorious at the
same time, who is to account for the profile of the angel in yellow with
the grand beating wings of shaded purple and grey that support the
lifted Virgin through the rushing air? The limbs are grotesque, the
pointed nose almost stands away from the face, the ears protrude in
graceless deformity, and the chin is nearly rugged in its absurd upward
curve. A more painful presentment of an angel sane man never painted.
Yet look away, and you will see two exquisite slender limbs and feet,
pointed downward in the air, to show that El Greco knew a lovely thing
as well as any other painter. And yet higher still, examine the Virgin
with her dark, oval, intellectual, modern visage, beautiful with the
beauty of our own troubled and eager times, half spiritual, half
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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