Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish CapitalLynch, Hannah
History
Toledo, the Story of an Old Spanish Capital
Lynch, Hannah
Toledo (Spain) -- Description and travel; Toledo (Spain) -- History
The old Puerta Visagra is now blocked up. Through it Alphonso VI.
entered Toledo. The work is entirely Moorish, of the first period, heavy
and simple, with the triple arches so delightfully curved in horseshoe
shape, and the upper crenelated apertures. The meaning of the name is
still disputed. Some give it a Latin origin, signifying _Via-Sacra_,
others an Arabian origin, _Bab_, gate, and _Shara_, meadow, as it leads
into the stony fields without, in the Vega. This seems to be the more
probable one, since the _Puerta Visagra_ distinctly dates from the time
of the Moors. The new gate faces the highroad of Estremadura, and was
built under Charles Quint, 1550. It forms two edifices, joined by a
large square courtyard with high turreted walls on either side. The
outer arch and tower are magnificent; the whole is impressive. On the
south front is the shield with the arms of Spain, and the Emperor's
eagles, in sculptured granite, with a Latin inscription below. There is
another front behind the vaulted entrance, with two graceful square
towers, adorned with balconies and elegant capitals narrowing to a
pyramidal point, roofed with white and green tiles, which make an odd
and not-unpleasing note against the brown rampart running upward. These
gleaming _azulejo_ tower-roofs dominate the plain, and, seen from above,
the effect of this little dash of brightness amidst all these brown
tones of earth and stone is indescribably gay. Within, on the doorway,
is the inscription of the Senate's dedication of the gate to Charles
Quint, and beyond the patio, in a niche in the central arch, is an
exceedingly fine statue of St Eugenio, either by Berruguete or Monegro.
Both these artists were engaged by Toledo to make statues for the gates
and bridges, and confusion now rests upon all the statues except that of
St Leocadia (now in the Hermitage of the Cristo de la Vega), which is
assuredly a Berruguete, and perhaps the most exquisite thing he has ever
done. Monegro's work will be sufficiently appreciated by the fact of
this confusion. Here, again, are finely sculptured, in large relief, the
arms of the Emperor, and a life-size angel guards the city with
unsheathed sword. This statue and the shield were originally gilt, but
time has worn the gilt away; in either tower-front, on both sides of the
shield, are two statues of Gothic kings. But a mere description of the
details of this splendid gate can really give no impression of its
general effect. If there were not the _Puerta del Sol_--one of the
world's masterpieces--so near, one would be tempted to call it the
finest on earth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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