The heavy dew was shaken in large drops out of the wet flapping sails,
against which the reef points pattered like hail as the vessel rolled.
The decks were wet and slippery, and our jackets saturated with moisture;
but we enjoyed the luxury of cold to a degree that made the sea water when
dashed about the decks, as they were being holystoned, appear absolutely
warm. Presently all nature awoke in its freshness so suddenly, that it
looked like a change of scene in a theatre. The sun, as yet set to us,
rose to the huge peak, and glanced like lightning on his summit, making it
gleam like a ruby; presently the clouds on his shaggy ribs rolled upwards,
enveloping his head and shoulders, and were replaced by the thin blue
mists which ascended from the valleys, forming a fleecy canopy, beneath
which appeared hill and dale, woods and cultivated lands, where all had
been undistinguishable a minute before, and gushing streams burst from the
mountain sides like gouts of froth, marking their course in the level
grounds by the vapours they sent up. Then breeze--mill towers burst into
light, and cattle--mills, with their cone--shaped roofs, and overseers
houses, and water-mills, with the white spray falling from the wheels,
and sugar-works, with long pennants of white smoke streaming from the
boiling-house chimneys seaward in the morning wind. Immediately after,
gangs of negroes were seen at work; loaded waggons, with enormous teams of
fourteen to twenty oxen dragging them, rolled along the roads; long
strings of mules loaded with canes were threading the fields; drogging
vessels were seen to shove out from every cove; the morning song of the
black fishermen was heard, while their tiny canoes, like black specks,
started up suddenly on all sides of us, as if they had floated from the
bottom of the sea; and the smiling scene burst at once, and as if by
magic, on us, in all its coolness and beauty, under the cheering influence
of the rapidly rising sun. We fired a gun, and made the signal for a
pilot; upon which a canoe, with three negroes in it, shoved off from a
small schooner lying to about a mile to leeward. They were soon
alongside, when one of the three jumped on board. This was the pilot, a
slave, as I knew; and I remember the time, when, in my innocence, I would
have expected to see something very squalid and miserable, but there was
nothing of the kind; for I never in my life saw a more spruce saltwater
dandy, in a small way. He was well dressed, according to a seaman’s
notion--clean white trowsers, check shirt, with white lapels, neatly
fastened at the throat with a black ribbon, smart straw hat; and
altogether he carried an appearance of comfort--I was going to write
independence--about him, that I was by no means prepared for. He moved
about with a swaggering roll, grinning and laughing with the seamen.
“I say, blackie,” said Mr Douglas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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