I had never slept on shore out of Kingston before; the night season in the
country in dear old England, we all know, is usually one of the deepest
stillness--here it was any thing but still;--as the evening closed in,
there arose a loud humming noise, a compound of the buzzing, and chirping,
and whistling, and croaking of numberless reptiles and insects, on the
earth, in the air, and in the water. I was awakened out of my first sleep
by it, not that the sound was disagreeable, but it was unusual; and every
now and then a beetle, the size of your thumb, would bang in through the
open window, cruise round the room with a noise like a humming-top, and
then dance a quadrille with half-a-dozen bats; while the fire-flies
glanced like sparks, spangling the folds of the muslin curtains of the
bed. The croak of the tree-toad, too, a genteel reptile, with all the
usual loveable properties of his species, about the size of the crown of
your hat, sounded from the neighbouring swamp, like some one snoring in
the piazza, blending harmoniously with the nasal concert got up by
Jupiter, and some other heathen deities, who were sleeping there almost
naked, excepting the head, which every negro swathes during the night with
as much flannel and as many handkerchiefs as he can command. By the way,
they all slept on their faces--I wonder if this will account for their
flat noses.
Next morning we started at daylight, cracking along at the rate of twelve
knots an hour in a sort of gig, with one horse in the shafts, and another
hooked on a-breast of him to a sort of studdingsail-boom, or outrigger,
and followed by three mounted servants, each with a led horse and two
sumpter mules.
In the evening we arrived at an estate under Mr Fyall’s management, having
passed a party of maroons immediately before. I never saw finer men tall,
strapping fellows, dressed exactly as they should be and the climate
requires; wide duck trowsers, over these a loose shirt, of duck also,
gathered at the waist by a broad leathern belt, through which, on one
side, their short cutlass is stuck, while on the other hangs a leathern
pouch for ball, and a loose thong across one shoulder, supports, on the
opposite hip, a large powder-horn and haversack. This, with a straw hat,
and a short gun in their hand, with a sling to be used on a march,
completes their equipment--in better keeping with the climate, than the
padded coats, heavy caps, tight cross-belts, and ponderous muskets of our
regulars. As we drove up to the door, the overseer began to bawl, “Boys,
boys!” and kept blowing a dog-call. All servants in the country in the
West Indies, be they as old as Methuselah, are called boys. In the
present instance, half-a-dozen black fellows forthwith appeared, to take
our luggage, and attend on massa in other respects. The great man was
as austere to the poor overseer, as if he had been guilty of some
misdemeanour, and after a few short, crabbed words, desired him to get
supper, “do you hear?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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