The left or western bank of the narrow entrance to the harbour, from
which we were now debauching, ran out in all its precipitousness and
beauty, (with its dark evergreen bushes overshadowing the deep blue
waters, and its gigantic trees shooting forth high into the glowing
western sky, their topmost branches gold-tipped in the flood of
radiance shed by the rapidly sinking sun, while all below where we lay
was grey cold shade,) until it joined the northern shore, when it sloped
away gradually towards the east; the higher parts of the town sparkled
in the evening sun, on this dun ridge, like golden turrets on the back
of an elephant, while the houses that were in the shade covered the
declivity with their dark masses, until it sank down to the water’s
edge. On the right hand the haven opened boldly out into a basin about
four miles broad by seven long, in which the placid waters spread out
beyond the shadow of the western bank into one vast sheet of molten
gold, with the canoe tearing along the shining surface, her side
glancing in the sun, and her paddles flashing back his rays, and leaving
a long train of living fire sparkling in her wake.
It was now about six o’clock in the evening; the sun had set to us, as
we pulled along under the frowning brow of the cliff, where the birds
were fast settling on their nightly perches, with small happy
twitterings, and the lizards and numberless other chirping things began
to send forth their evening hymn to the great Being who made them and
us, and a solitary white sailing owl would every now and then flit
spectre like from one green tuft, across the bald face of the cliff, to
another, and the small divers around us were breaking up the black
surface of the waters into little sparkling circles as they fished for
their suppers. All was becoming brown and indistinct near us; but the
level beams of the setting sun still lingered with a golden radiance
upon the lovely city, and the shipping at anchor before it, making their
sails, where loosed to dry, glance like leaves of gold, and their spars,
and masts, and rigging like wires of gold, and gilding their flags,
which were waving majestically and slow from the peaks in the evening
breeze; and the Moorish-looking steeples of the churches were yet
sparkling in the glorious blaze, which was gradually deepening into
gorgeous crimson, while the large pillars of the cathedral, then
building on the highest part of the ridge, stood out like brazen
monuments, softening even as we looked into a Stonehenge of amethysts.
One half of every object, shipping, houses, trees, and hills, was
gloriously illuminated; but even as we looked, the lower part of the
town gradually sank into darkness, and faded from our sight--the
deepening gloom cast by the high bank above us, like the dark shadow of
a bad spirit, gradually crept on, and on, and extended farther and
farther; the sailing water-fowl in regular lines, no longer made the
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