The next morning after breakfast I proceeded to Santiago, and landed at
the custom house wharf, where I found everything bustle, dust, and heat;
several of the captains of the English vessels were there, who
immediately made up to me, and reported how far advanced in their lading
they were, and enquired when we were to give them convoy, the latest
news from Kingston, &c. At length I saw our friend Ricardo Campana going
along one of the neighbouring streets, and I immediately made sail in
chase. He at once recognised me, gave me a cordial shake of the hand,
and enquired how he could serve me. I produced two letters which I had
brought for him, but which had been forgotten in the bustle of the
preceding day; they were introductory, and although sealed, I had some
reason to conjecture that my friend, Mr Pepperpot Wagtail, had done me
much more than justice. Campana, with great kindness, immediately
invited me to his house. “We foreigners,” said he, “don’t keep your
hours; I am just going home to breakfast.” It was past eleven in the
forenoon. I was about excusing myself on the plea of having already
breakfasted, when he silenced me. “Why, I guessed as much, Mr
Lieutenant, but then you have not lunched; you can call it lunch, you
know, if it will ease your conscience.” There was no saying nay to all
this civility, so we stumped along the burning streets, through a mile
of houses, large massive buildings, but very different in externals from
the gay domiciles of Kingston. Aaron Bang afterwards used to say that
they looked more like prisons than dwelling-houses, and he was not in
this very much out. Most of them were built of brick and plastered
over, with large windows, in front of each of which, like the houses in
the south of Spain, there was erected a large heavy wooden balcony,
projecting far enough from the wall to allow a Spanish chair, such as I
have already described, to be placed in it. The front of these verandas
was closed in with a row of heavy balustrades at the bottom, of a
variety of shapes, and by clumsy carved woodwork above, which
effectually prevented you from seeing into the interior. The whole had
a Moorish air, and in the upper part of the town there was a Sabbath--
like stillness prevailing, which was only broken now and then by the
tinkle of a guitar from one of the aforesaid verandas, or by the
rattling of a crazy volante, a sort of covered gig, drawn by a broken
kneed and broken winded mule, with a kiln dried old Spaniard or dona in
it.
The lower part of the town had been busy enough, and the stir and hum of
it rendered the quietude of the upper part of it more striking.
A shovel hatted friar now suddenly accosted us.
“Senor Campana--ese pobre familia de Cangrejo! Lastima! Lastima!”
“Cangrejo--Cangrejo!” muttered I; “why, it is the very name attached to
the miniature.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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