The inhabitants of the valleys look after such pedestrians with
a smile,--they cannot imagine what these fellows, with their long
mountain-staffs and ice-picks, their knapsacks on their backs, and
their hob-nailed shoes, according so ill with their city costume, can
want among the mountains. That these people from the city should
undertake such difficult and wearisome expeditions for pleasure, that
they should at peril of their lives ascend the most inaccessible
mountain-peaks to find a passage to a place which they could otherwise
reach much more quickly and easily, seems to these honest countryfolk
so silly that they have but one explanation for it, doubtless a
harmless insanity; and they call these restless, indefatigable climbers
of glaciers and snow-peaks, Bergfaxes (mountain fools). They are very
fond of the Bergfaxes nevertheless, for they always need guides and
carriers for their mountain expeditions, and are willing enough to pay
their guilders for service rendered, thus bringing some cash at least
into the retired valleys.
With the exception of the Bergfaxes, who sometimes take up their abode
in Tausens for a few days to make the ascent of the Drei Maidelspitz or
the Weisshorn from the Schwarzbachthal, or of the Spitzhorn from the
Rothwalden, and who finally depart for the Zillerthal over the
Schiechjoch, scarcely a traveller ever visits Tausens, although its
magnificent situation makes it well worthy of a sojourn.
The view from the platform in front of the inn, which is also the
post-office, is magnificent, and enchantingly lovely. Towards the south
the eye revels for leagues in the broad green fertile valley of the
Tausenser Aar, lying between two fir-clad mountain-ranges, and closed
in in the far distance by the jagged and rocky peaks of the Dolomites.
To the northeast lie the beautiful forests of the Rothwald, with the
snowy pile of the Spitzhorn for a background, and to the northwest the
two glorious glaciers of the Maidelspitz and the Weisshorn.
In this wondrously lovely country the ancient castle of Reifenstein is
a most striking object, commanding as it does the entire panorama of
mountain, river, and valley. The glorious old pile is still in
tolerable repair,--a careful hand has stayed the ravages of time, which
have buried in ruins so many of its contemporaries. Some of the old
walls are crumbling, it is true, but the main structure is in thorough
repair, and two huge round towers are propped from decay by a modern
substructure. Although in the interior these towers are so ruinous that
their summits are inaccessible, their massive masonry defies the
tempests that rage against them from the south and northeast, and will
still for coming centuries bear witness to the despotic sway once
exercised over the three valleys by the lords of Reifenstein.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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