Leaving Callao we had a fine breeze, set studding-sails alow and aloft. When abreast Valparaiso, the wind veered around into the south and blew a stiff breeze, which obliged us to lay off and on for a few days. The wind dying away, we put into the harbor of Valparaiso, which is the most singular one I ever entered. The water is of vast depth, being upwards of fifty fathoms within a short distance of the town. We spent some little time on shore, which we enjoyed very finely indeed; found the natives kind and hospitable. The men follow the European fashion of dress, while the females adhere strictly to that of Peru. Many of the common and lower classes wear the ponsha, which is simply a large cloth with a hole in it for the neck. In the use of the lasso they equal if not excel any other people, throwing it with the greatest precision. Children at an early age practice the lasso upon poultry and cats, which they throw with unerring aim. By the gradual change in the temperature of the atmosphere we were forcibly reminded of nearness to the Cape, which we were again to double. Finding the quantity of spirits on hand insufficient as we then thought for the occasion, we told the captain we would not double the Cape with so small a supply. Against this he remonstrated. We urged him to compliance. After spending a week at Valparaiso, we left the harbor and stood at sea with a fair wind from the west; thus we ran about thirty-six hours, when the wind hauled into the north. [207] "Dreary and hollow moans foretold a gale; Nor long the issue tarried; then the wind, Unprisoned, blew its trumpet loud and shrill; * * * * the rain Came down like music." The fore and main royals were clewed up; the breeze still freshening, we clewed up and stowed the fore and main-top-gallant sails, running thus until near daylight, when we single reefed the top-sails. At twelve that day, were under close reefed main-top-sail and reefed fore-sail, bounding along at the rate of twelve knots per hour. Thus we ran until we sighted Terra del Fuego. As we hauled around the Cape the wind seemed to follow us; the sea ran quarterly on the vessel and very high. A heavy sea struck us on our quarter, and hove her on her beam ends; immediately letting go the fore sheet relieved her, and again she righted, broaching to as she done so. Hauling up and stowing her fore-sail, we hove her to, headed towards the Atlantic. The wind again shifted into the southwest, and abated somewhat, still the sea ran high indeed. We made all sail possible and drove her through the swells; sometimes she would scoop up water with her bows and throw it off astern, washing the men about deck in spite of all efforts to the contrary. The weather was intensely cold, and, had we been compelled to have staid there much longer, I fear we should have frozen to death, for our clothes were already stiff with ice.