The weather proved unfavorable indeed, and obliged us to beat about, making but little progress. Taking a fine breeze and a leading wind, we were soon in the straits of Malacca, which separate the peninsular of Malacca from the island of Sumatra. Those straits are infested with pirates of a most desperate character, seizing upon every opportunity for plundering vessels, and oftentimes are not satiated until all of the crew have fallen victims to their murderous cruelty. Most of the vessels that pass these straits are traders, and therefore but poorly prepared for defence. We prepared ourselves in the best manner possible for an attack, collecting all the small arms, knives, &c., and loaded the two twelve pounders which were on the quarter deck. We ran through the straits without any molestation whatever; headed our wind and ran across the gulf of Siam; spoke the ship Rothchilds, 14 days from Canton, bound for London; and after the usual salutation, and request to be reported at home as well, we passed on, and in ten days we were at the mouth of the river Canton. Here we lay at anchor 14 days in consequence of head winds, which at length favoring us, we proceeded up the river till we came to the island of Lintin situated about fifty miles from Canton, where we came to anchor,[256] and entered our cargo, paying the duty. The duty consists of a tax upon the tonnage of the vessel, and upon the different kinds of goods with which she may be laden. Besides this tax there is a kumshaw or a present to government required, which is demanded alike of vessels of all sizes. Our whole tax amounted to about five hundred dollars. At Lintin we discharged a part of our cargo, and from thence proceeded up the river to Canton and came to anchor, and discharged the remainder of our cargo. Canton is situated on the eastern bank of the river Pekiang, which is a beautiful stream about one-third of a mile wide. This is the only port of trade of any importance in China. The city with its ponds and pleasure grounds covers an area of about seven miles in circumference, and is enclosed with a wall, which is at short intervals mounted with cannon. There are several entrances which are, beside the strong iron gates, guarded with one or more soldiers. At night these gates are closed, and at each street bars are thrown across the entrance. All foreigners are almost entirely excluded, being only allowed within the populous portions with permission. Their only land locations are at the hongs which are built on the bank of the river near to the water's edge, and devoted almost entirely to them. One of the most pleasing sights is the Chinese floating town, which is composed of fifty or sixty thousand vessels of different kinds which are placed in rows tightly together. Here families are born, live and die, without ever stepping on shore. This town extends several miles down the river from Canton. [257]