Perhaps there is no country in the world where the means of education can equal those of the North of Germany. At Hamburg there are over an hundred thousand volumes of books, in only two libraries. The universities of Germany are attended by students from all parts of Europe and oftentimes from America. Our cargo consisted of wheat, flour, Gin, &c. We hoisted sail and proceeded down the river. When abreast Cuxhaven we clewed up and let go the second bower. The current was so strong that this was no sooner fast than the cable parted and we ran near to the quicksands, that lay under our stern at the distance of half a mile. We immediately let go another and veered away until she was checked of her progress. By this time we had out about 90 fathoms of cable, and were within a stone's throw of the sands. Here we lay four hours momentarily fearing this cable would also part, and our destruction be sure. The tide beginning to turn, we manned the windlass and hove the ship to her anchor, which was soon lifted, and we dropped away to the eddy of Cuxhaven. The next morning another anchor was sent from the shore. We then weighed anchor and stood out to sea, passed Heligoland, where we left our pilot. [271] With a fair wind we ran along the coast of Holland, and spoke several English, French and Dutch fishermen. Setting studding-sails alow and aloft we ran through the fleet, which is always at anchor at the Downs; had a delightful view of the coast along from Margate to Beachy Head; and passed the high Chalk Cliffs of Dover, which rise almost perpendicularly to the height of two or three hundred feet. Here is situated the famous castle of Dover. There are many tiers of windows or loop-holes for musketry worked in the cliff, and the subterranean barracks and passages are extensive. The besieged can retreat through these passages at pleasure. The barracks are sufficient for the accommodation of three or four thousand men. This was formerly the place of confinement of criminals, and is now so used for debtors. The town of Dover is situated on a low marshy soil, scarcely visible from the sea, and is principally inhabited by pilots for London and the north sea. Life-boats are stationed there at the expense of the government, to render assistance to those to whom accident may befall. One third of the money obtained from ships' crews goes to government, while the remaining two-thirds is retained by the crew of the life-boat. Each pilot is obliged to serve seven years before he can take a boat, and only a few can obtain an appointment at that time. The appointments are made by the Admiralty of England, which is composed of old men who have spent long lives at sea, and are supposed to thoroughly understand navigation, and extricating ships from all possible difficulties. [272]