Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I returned back to the town of Warwick to see the church, and the chapel
containing the monument of the great King-Maker, which he placed there
in his life-time, and now reposes under. His statue of metal lies on the
sarcophagus; an eagle and a bear at his feet. The head is very
expressive and natural. He does not fold his hands as is the case in
most statues of knights, but only raises them a little to heaven, as
though he would not pray, and could greet even his Maker only with a
gesture of courtesy: his head is slightly inclined, but with no air of
humility. Round his stone coffin are emblazoned the splendid bearings of
all his lordships, and an enormous sword lies threatening by his side.
The splendid painted windows, and the numerous well-preserved and richly
gilded ornaments give to the whole a stately, solemn character.
A family of the town most unfortunately got permission, about a hundred
and fifty years ago, to erect a monument to some country 'squire or
other, immediately under the large central window. It occupies the
entire wall, and destroys the beautiful simplicity of the whole by this
hideous, disgraceful modern excrescence.
By the side-wall lies another intruder carved in stone, but one of
better pretensions;--no less a man than the powerful earl of Leicester:
he is represented of middle age, a handsome, high-bred and haughty
looking man; but without the lofty genius in his features so strikingly
portrayed on the metal countenance of the great Warwick.
A few posts from Leamington, in a country which gradually becomes more
solitary and dreary, lies Kenilworth.
With Sir Walter Scott's captivating book in my hand I wandered amid
these ruins, which call up such varied feelings. They cover a space of
more than three-quarters of a mile in circumference, and exhibit,
although in rapid decay, many traces of great and singular magnificence.
The oldest part of the castle, built in 1120, still stands the firmest,
while the part added by Leicester is almost utterly destroyed. The wide
moat which formerly surrounded the castle, and around which stretched a
park of thirty English miles in circuit, was dried up in Cromwell's
time, in the hope of finding treasure in it. The park, too, has long
disappeared, and is now changed into fields, on which are some scattered
cottages. A part of the castle, standing isolated and almost hidden
under creeping plants, is transformed into a kind of out-work; and the
whole surrounding country has a more barren, deserted and melancholy
aspect than any part we have travelled through. But this harmonizes well
with the character of the principal object, and enhances the saddening
effect of greatness in such utter decay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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