Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Not to lose a day, as there is nothing to see here but workshops, I
intend to set off this evening and travel through the night to Chester.
There we shall spend to-morrow in seeing Eaton, Lord Grosvenor's
celebrated seat, of which I wrote you word that Bathiany gave me such a
magnificent description, and which, according to all I hear, contains
whatever gold can procure. The day after to-morrow I shall return
hither, visit some more manufactories, and then go back to Oxford, in
the neighbourhood of which are two of the largest parks in England,
Blenheim and Stowe.
_Chester, January 1st, 1827._
Another year gone! None of the worst to me, except for the separation
from you. I lighted the lamp in the carriage and read Lady Morgan's last
novel with great pleasure, while we rolled swiftly over the level road.
As soon as the hand reached twelve o'clock, R---- congratulated me on
the new year, for myself and for you. In twelve hours more we reached
Chester, an ancient 'baroque' city.
Though we had gone nineteen German miles in thirteen hours, I find that
in England, as well as in France, as you go further from the metropolis
you find a general deterioration;--the inns are less excellent, the
post-horses worse, the postilions more dirty, the dress of the people
generally less respectable, and the air of bustle and business less. At
the same time, the dearness increases, and you are subjected to many
extortions which, nearer to London, are prevented by the great
competition.
The new year set in with unfavourable weather. It rained the whole day.
As soon as we had made a little toilet, we hastened to see the wonders
of Eaton Hall, of which, however, my expectations were not very high.
Moderate as they were, they were scarcely realized. The park and the
gardens were, to my taste, the most unmeaning of any of their class I
had seen, although of vast extent; and the house excited just the same
feeling in me as Ashbridge, only with the difference that it is still
more overloaded, and internally far less beautiful, though furnished
still more expensively, in patches. You find all imaginable splendour
and ostentation which a man who has an income of a million of our money
can display; but taste not perhaps in the same profusion. In this chaos
of modern Gothic excrescences, I remarked ill-painted modern glass
windows, and shapeless tables and chairs, which most incongruously
affected to imitate architectural ornaments. I did not find one single
thing worth sketching; and it is perfectly inconceivable to me how M.
Lainé, (to whose merits in the embellishment of his country all must do
justice,) could, in the Annals of the Berlin Horticultural Society,
prefer this to any he had seen; at which indeed his English critics have
made merry not a little. M. Lainé imitated this garden in the one in
front of the palace at Potsdam. In his place I should, I confess, have
chosen another model; though this style is certainly far better suited
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