Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
The church on the Avon (the same river which washes the noble walls of
Warwick,) where Shakspeare lies buried, is a beautiful remnant of
antiquity, adorned with numerous remarkable monuments; among which, that
of the chief of poets is, of course, the most conspicuous. It was
formerly painted and gilded, as was the bust; but through the stupidity
of a certain Malone, was whitewashed over about a century ago, by which
it lost much of its singular character. The bust is far from having any
merit as a work of art: it is devoid of expression, and probably,
therefore, of resemblance. It was not without a considerable outlay of
trouble and money that I succeeded in getting a little engraving of the
monument in the original colours,--the last copy the clerk's wife had,
as she assured me. I send it with my letter.
I also bought in a bookseller's shop several views of the place, and of
the objects I have mentioned. In the town-house there is a large picture
of Shakspeare, painted in more recent times; and a still better one of
Garrick, which has some resemblance, not only in the features but the
'tournure' to Iffland.
_Oxford, Jan. 7th._
After having given the 'parkomanie' two days rest, we revived it to-day,
having visited no less than four great parks, the last of which was the
famous Blenheim. But in order:--'Exécutez vous.'
First we passed through Eastrop Park, remarkable in as far as it is of
the time in which the French style had just begun to decline; but at
this transition period the change was as yet so slight, that avenues of
clumps, of different but regularly alternating figures, replaced avenues
of single trees; and hedges were planted in serpentine lines. The whole
appeared in great decay.
Ditchley Park is more beautiful. Unfortunately, the English climate
played us a sad trick to-day. In the morning (for the second time since
we left London) the sun shone, and we were triumphing in our good luck,
when suddenly there fell such a fog that during the whole remaining day
we never could see a hundred steps before us,--often scarcely ten. In
the house we found a number of good pictures, especially very fine
portraits, but no creature could tell us whom they represented. We
learned nothing new in _our_ art, but we found a novelty in another
department. In the gamekeeper's lodge, in default of spoils of nobler
beasts, were about six dozen rats nailed up, their legs and tails
displayed with great taste.
Our third visit was to Blandford Park, belonging to Lord Churchill; very
inconsiderable as a park, but the house contains some noble pictures.
Two, I particularly envied the possessor. The first, a female figure,
attributed, no doubt falsely, to Michael Angelo. The drawing is
certainly bold, but there is a truth and elasticity in the flesh, a
Titian-like colouring, and a lovely archness of expression, which betray
no Michael Angelo,--even suppose the assertion to be false, that we
possess no oil-paintings of that great master.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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