Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
This evening I hope to be in London again. While the horses are
putting-to I write a few words. We saw Lord Carrington's park this
morning,--for your comfort be it said, the last, at present at least.
The garden is nothing remarkable: the house is in the beloved modern
Gothic style, but, being simple and unpretending, looks less affected.
It is built of stone, without ornament. A good portrait of Pitt hangs in
the library. This great man has anything but the face of a man of
genius,--and who knows whether posterity will think his deeds betray
more than his face?
One thing pretty I observed in the garden,--a thick massy wreath of ivy
planted on the turf. It looks as if negligently dropped there. Our
excursion was to be closed by the sight of Bulstrode, which Repton
describes at such length as the model of parks; but this drop is spared
you, my poor Julia, for the Duke of Portland has sold it, and the
present owner has felled the trees about which Repton is so
enthusiastic, ploughed up the park, and pulled down the house to sell
the stone. It was a miserable scene of desolation,--made more miserable
by the strange dress of the women at work; they were wrapped from top to
toe in blood-red cloaks, and looked like an ill-omened assemblage of
executioners.
_London, Jan. 13th._
By bright gas-light, which is always like a festal illumination here, we
drove into town, and as I wished to have an instant contrast with my
park-and-garden life, I alighted at Covent Garden to see my first
Christmas pantomime. This is a very favourite spectacle in England,
particularly with children; so that I was quite in my place. Playwrights
and scene-painters take great pains to make every year's wonders exceed
the last. Before I bid you good-night I must give you a rhapsodical
sketch of the performance. At the rising of the curtain a thick mist
covers the stage and gradually rolls off. This is remarkably well
managed by means of fine gauze. In the dim light you distinguish a
little cottage, the dwelling of a sorceress; in the back-ground a lake
surrounded by mountains, some of whose peaks are clothed with snow. All
as yet is misty and indistinct;--the sun then rises triumphantly, chases
the morning dews, and the hut, with the village in the distance, now
appear in perfect outline. And now you behold upon the roof a large
cock, who flaps his wings, plumes himself, stretches his neck, and
greets the sun with several very natural _Kikerikys_.[40] A magpie near
him begins to chatter and to strut about, and to peck at a gigantic
tom-cat lying in a niche in the wall, who sleepily stretches himself,
cleans his face, and purrs most complacently. This tom-cat is acted with
great 'virtuosité' by an actor who is afterwards transformed into
Harlequin. The way in which he plays with a melon, the lightness and
agility with which he climbs up the chimney and down again, his springs,
and all his gesture, are so natural that they could only be acquired by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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