Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I soon went out;--first on the Marine Parade, which stretches to a
considerable extent along the sea; then made a tour through the large,
clean, and very cheerful town, which with its broad streets is like the
newest parts of London; and concluded with visits to several London
acquaintances. I then rode out, for I had sent my horses here before me.
Vainly did I look around for a tree. The country is perfectly naked:
nothing is to be seen but hilly downs covered with short turf; and sea
and sky are the only picturesque objects:--even this first day of my
visit they greeted me with the most beautiful sunset. The majestic orb
was veiled in a rosy transparent mist, so that it darted forth no rays,
but was like a ball of massive gold, glowing with the most fervid heat:
as it touched the water, it appeared slowly to dissolve, and to spread
itself over the surface of the blue deep. At length Ocean swallowed the
fiery globe; the burning hues faded from red to violet, then gradually
to whitish gray, and at length the waves driven by the evening wind,
dashed murmuring on the shore in the dim twilight, as if in triumph over
the buried sun.
A distinguished old Minister enjoyed this noble spectacle with me, and
was fully alive to its beauty. Lord Harrowby is an amiable man, of mild
refined manners, and of great experience of the world and of business.
_February 8th._
Public rooms, lists of visitors (_Badelisten_), &c., do not exist here.
Brighton has only the name of a bathing-place in our sense of the word,
and is chiefly resorted to by the inhabitants of London for recreation
and pure air. People who have no country-house, or who find London too
expensive, spend the winter, which is the fashionable season, here. The
King was formerly very fond of Brighton, and built a strange Oriental
Palace, which seen from the adjoining heights, with its cupolas and
minarets, looks exactly like the pieces on a chess-board. The interior
is splendidly though fantastically furnished. Although it has cost
enormous sums, its possessor, long sick of it, is said to have shown a
desire to pull it down, which indeed would be no great subject of
lamentation.
The only large trees I have seen in the neighbourhood are in the gardens
of this Palace. But the walks by the sea are so ageeable that one does
very well without; especially the large Chain Pier, which extends a
thousand feet into the sea, and from whose extremity the steam-vessels
sail for Dieppe and Boulogne.
Not far from thence an Indian has established Oriental baths, where
people are shampooed after the Turkish fashion, which is said to be very
healthful and invigorating, and is in great favour with the fashionable
world. I found the interior arrangements very European. The treatment is
like that in the Russian vapour-baths, only I think not so good. I
cannot help thinking the sudden cold after such profuse perspiration
very dangerous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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