Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
An acquaintance had lent me his hunter, as I had left mine in London,
and I determined to ride, in a direction as yet unknown to me, towards
what is called the Devil's Dyke. I had already ridden some miles over
the smooth turf, when suddenly the air was obscured, and in a few
minutes I could not see ten steps before me. Thus it remained; nor did
there appear the least hope of its clearing. I passed an hour in riding
to and fro in search of a tracked road;--my light clothing was soaked
through, the air ice-cold, and had night overtaken me, the prospect was
not the most agreeable. In this extremity, wholly unacquainted with the
country, it happily occurred to me to give my old horse, who had often
hunted over these downs, completely his own way. In a few paces after he
felt himself perfectly free he turned short about, and set off at a
pretty brisk gallop directly down the hill upon which I was. I took good
care not to disturb him, spite of the obscurity around me, even when he
broke through a field of high prickly broom and furze, over which he
leapt like a hare. A few inconsiderable hedges and ditches of course
retarded him still less; and after half an hour's pretty hard running,
the good beast brought me safely to the entrance of Brighton, though on
the opposite side to that from which I had set out. I was heartily glad
to get off so well, and seriously determined to be more prudent in this
land of fog for the future.
I generally spend my evenings at Lady K----'s or Mrs. F----'s, and
play écarté and whist with the men, or loo with the young ladies. These
small circles are much more agreeable than the great parties of the
metropolis. There, every art is understood but the art of society. Thus,
for instance, musicians, artists, poets, and men of talent generally,
are invited merely as fashionable decorations; to live with them, to
extract enjoyment from their conversation, or from their genius, is a
thing utterly unknown. All real cultivation has a political character
and tendency; party spirit, and the fashionable spirit of caste pervade
all society. Hence arises not only a universal 'décousu,' but a rigorous
division of the several elements; which, combined with the naturally
unsocial temper of Englishmen, must render a residence among them
unpleasant to every foreigner, unless he either has access to the most
intimate family circles, or can take a lively interest in political
affairs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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