Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
I went into the Ship tavern, gave my horse to the hostler, and was shown
into a very neat little room with a balcony projecting over the Thames,
under which the fish were swimming which I, merciless human beast of
prey, was about to devour. The river was enlivened by a hundred barks;
music and song resounded cheerfully from the steam-boats passing by; and
behind the gay scene, the sun, blood-red, and enveloped in a light veil
of mist, declined towards the horizon. As I sat at the window, I gave
audience to my thoughts, till the entrance of various sorts of fish as
variously prepared, called me to more material pleasures. Iced
champagne, and Lord Chesterfield's Letters, which I had put into my
pocket, gave zest to my repast; and after a short siesta, during which
night had come on, I remounted my horse and rode the German mile and a
half to my home through an unbroken avenue of brilliant gas lamps, and
over well-watered roads. It was just striking midnight when I reached
the house, and a coffin hung with black passed me on the left like an
apparition.
_July 5th._
B---- gave me your letter at Almack's, and I immediately hastened 'home'
with it. How greatly have your descriptions rejoiced me! I was near
weeping over the venerable trees that called to me, through you,--"Oh,
our master and lord, hearest thou not the rustling of our leafy tops,
the home of so many birds?" Ah, yes, I hear it in spirit, and shall have
no true enjoyment till I am once more therewith my truest friend, and
the plants that are to me as loving children. I thank you cordially for
the leaf of cinq foil; and as the horse of the accompanying Vienna
postillion, the bearer of a thousand blessings, has lost his tail on the
road, I have replaced it by this leaf, which gives him a genuine Holy
Alliance look.
Here my old B---- interrupted me with the question whether he might stay
out for the night, promising to be back by eight in the morning. I gave
him leave, and asked, laughing, what adventure he had in hand? "Ach!"
said he, "I only want for once to see how they hang people here, and at
six o'clock in the morning five men are to be hanged at once."
What a discord rang through my whole being, just filled with joyous
tumult! What a contrast between the thousands, wearied with the dance,
and sated with multiplied amusements, returning home at that hour to
their luxurious couches, and those wretched beings who are condemned to
pass through anguish and pain into eternity! I exclaimed again with
Napoleon, "Oh, monde, monde!" and for a long time, after a day wasted in
frivolity, could not go to sleep; I was pursued by the thought that at
that very moment perhaps these unhappy ones were called to take so
fearful a leave of the world and its joys; not excited and elevated by
the feeling of being martyrs to some good or great cause, but the
victims of vulgar, debasing crime. Men pity those who suffer innocently:
how much more pitiable do the guilty appear to me!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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