Last came the so-called dwarfs--which were neither more nor less than the little children of the 'Impressario,' stuck into a sort of bird-cage, their faces shaded, and only their hands and feet left free. With the former the little wretches made a horrible noise with great bells.--Here closed the exhibition:--an English hoax, which no Frenchman could have executed more burlesquely nor with more effrontery. _July 29th._ Since I became Mr. Deville's pupil I cannot help measuring the skulls of all my acquaintances with my eye, before I open myself to them; and to-day, like the man in Kotzebue's comedy, I examined an English servant I was hiring, 'in optima forma.' Let us hope the result will not be similar,--for the line drawn through the ear gave good promise. And here it struck me that the common proverb (and how much popular truth do such often contain!) is perfectly in accordance with Deville's principle--"He has it behind the ear, beware of him!" (_Er hat es hinter den Ohren, hütet euch vor ihm!_) Joking apart, I am perfectly convinced that, as with magnetism, so with craniology, people throw away the good with the bad[65] when they treat it as a mere chimera. It may admit of many modifications: but I have so fully proved the justice of the leading principles upon my own skull, that I should not think people at all ridiculous for paying some attention to it in educating their children--nor even for using it to aid their own self-knowledge. I, at least, have gained a more clear idea of myself by this means than I had before. As I had been writing all day, I took advantage of the mild and clear moonlight for my ride. The night was quite Italian, and the roads lighted to a great distance with lamps, within the region of which I remained, and rode for several hours in the town and suburbs. The view from Westminster-bridge was most striking. The numerous lights on board the vessels danced like Will-o'-the-Whisps, on the surface of the Thames; and the many bridges spanned the noble stream as with arches of light. Westminster Abbey alone was without any artificial illumination. Only the loving moon, the betrothed of ruins and Gothic temples, caressed with her pale beams the stone pinnacles and ornaments, sought every deep nook with eager fondness, and silvered the long glittering windows; while the roof and towers of the lofty building reared themselves, still and cold, in black colourless majesty, above the lights and the tumult of the city, into the deep blue firmament. The streets remain busy till midnight: nay, I even saw a boy of eight years old at the utmost, perfectly alone in a little child's carriage drawn by a large dog, driving along full trot, and without the slightest fear, among the latest carriages and stage-coaches. Such a thing can be seen only in England, where children are independent at eight, and hanged at twelve. But good morning dear Julia; it is time to go to bed. _August 1st._