Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
Now all this is lost and thrown away (for one always serves oneself
badly,) like many better things:--for example, a wondrously beautiful
tree in some American wilderness, which every spring decks itself in
vain with the richest foliage and the most fragrant blossoms, where no
human being can gladden his senses and his spirit by its sweetness. Such
an existence we call useless. What amiable egotism!--and under its
unjust sentence I too must suffer, for those above-mentioned virtues of
mine are just as useless;--nay, my whole person would probably be so,
were I not of substantial use to the post-boys and waiters, who take my
money; and valuable to you, my kind friend, ('je m'en flatte au moins,')
on other grounds. So that I do not live in the world absolutely and
utterly for nothing; and, as on the other hand I hurt nobody, my account
stands tolerably fair after striking a balance.
This whole day I have been wandering about the town. I began with the
cathedral, which may be compared to that of Milan for the richness of
its ornaments, as well as for its size. The founder was Archbishop
Scrope, (one of Shakespeare's personages,) whom Henry the Fourth
beheaded as a rebel in 1405. He lies buried in the church; and in the
chapter-house is a table covered with a piece of tapestry belonging to
him, and embroidered with his arms. It is still in tolerable
preservation. The windows in the church are chiefly of old stained
glass, only here and there repaired with new. The carving in stone is
everywhere admirable, and has all the delicacy and elegance of carved
wood, representing all sorts of foliage, animals, angels, &c. One of the
great windows is not less than seventy-five feet high and thirty-two
broad. That at the other end represents, by its strange stone
ramifications, the veins of the human heart, and, with its blood-red
glass, produces a curious effect. One of the side windows is remarkable
for being painted in imitation of embroidery; it is like a gay carpet.
In the choir is an old chair in which several Kings of England were
crowned. I sat down in it, and found it, for stone, very comfortable; I
dare say I should have thought it still more so if it had been the
preparation for a throne.
Near the church is a very pretty Gothic library, the arrangements of
which appeared to me very well contrived. Every book has three numbers
on the back. At the top, that of the shelf, then that of the
compartment, and below, its own number; so that it can be found in a
moment. The numbers are on pretty little labels, and do not at all
deform the books. In one corner is a very light and convenient staircase
leading to the gallery, which runs about midway round the room.
The alphabetical catalogue is arranged as follows:
Page 20.
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