Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
History
Tour in England, Ireland, and France, in the years 1826, 1827, 1828 and 1829.: with remarks on the manners and customs of the inhabitants, and anecdotes of distiguished public characters. In a series of letters by a German Prince.
Pückler-Muskau, Hermann, Fürst von
Great Britain -- Description and travel; Great Britain -- Social life and customs -- 19th century
This morning I devoted to the gleanings, and visited the ancient church
of All Saints, where I found some admirable painted glass, though in
very bad preservation. There was a Virgin and Child, of a beauty and
sweetness of expression of which Raphael would not have needed to be
ashamed. I then went to another old church, St. Mary's, where there is a
strange gateway on which a number of hieroglyphics and the signs of the
zodiac are beautifully carved in stone. As I had been introduced to the
Archbishop of York in London, I wrote him a note yesterday, and begged
to be allowed to pay my respects to him. He returned a most polite
answer, begging me to pass some days at his house. I however declined
his invitation to more than a dinner, and drove to his country-house at
five o'clock. I found a beautifully kept, luxuriant pleasure-ground, and
stately old Gothic structure in a peculiar style, which pleased me much.
It was not very large, but perfectly elegant; and at the four corners of
the flat roof stood four colossal eagles with out-stretched wings.
Instead of the heavy battlements, which have a good effect only in
enormous masses, a beautiful sort of open-work ornament in stone, at
once rich and light, ran round the roof as a parapet. That the interior
corresponded in magnificence with the exterior you may conclude from the
ecclesiastical rank and wealth of the possessor. The venerable
Archbishop, still a very hale active man, conducted me about, and showed
me his kitchen-gardens and hot-houses, which are remarkably fine. They
were as neat as the most elegant drawing-room,--a thing which it would
be impossible to make our gardeners understand. Not a trace of disorder
or dirt, of boards and tools lying about, dunghills near the paths, or
the like. On the walls were the choicest fruit-trees arranged in
symmetrical lines; among them currant-bushes which had attained to such
a growth by the removal of all the small under-branches, that they were
twelve feet high, and loaded to excess with bunches like small grapes.
In the hot houses, in which pines and grenadillas (a West-Indian fruit
in the form of a little melon, and with a flavour like that of a
pomegranate,) grew luxuriantly, was a different sort of vine in every
window: all were thick-hung with fruit. The fruit-trees on the walls
were covered with nets, and at a later season are matted, so that one
may pluck ripe fruit till January. One part of the garden was full of
ripe strawberries of a peculiar kind, and His Grace assured me he had
them in the open air till January. He pointed out to me the Norman cress
as a new vegetable of remarkably fine flavour, and told me it might be
cut in the snow.
The multitude of flowers still in blossom which edged the beds of the
kitchen-garden was striking. I know that this climate is favourable to
gardeners, nevertheless they must excel ours in the management of
flowers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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